i 



RO S TEN CENT 
NDT BOOKS 



i 



No 5. 



No. S. 



-i(5Wi-1^o 



CARVE, SERVE A DINNER, 



BREW. 



NEW YORK: 

NORMAN L. MUNRO, PUBLISHER, 

14 & 16 VANDEWATER ST. 



PRICE TEN CENTS. 



HOW 

TO CARVE, 



HOW TO SERVE A DINNER 



NEW YORK: 

NORMAN L. MUNRO, PUBLISHER, 

14 & 16 VANDEWATER STREET. 



CONTENTS. .^<b\ 






PAQB. 

Duties OF THB Dinner-table - - ,.---.3 

Soups - -■- - .7 

Fish ,__--8 

Turbot -►-- 8 

Salmon .,--..9 

Cod's Head and Shoulders ....--►- 9 
Mackerel '- --10 

Poultry - ......,__. 10. 

A Fowl Roasted > _ . . 10 

A Fowl Boiled ----11 

A Turkey Boiled ----11 

A Turkey Roasted -,- - - - - - - -12 

A Goose ----12 

A Green Goose --.-13 

A Duck 13 

Ducklings ---13 

Pigeons -- --.-13 

Joints - ---13 

Beef .....--....-14 
Names of Joints -.-..----J4 

An Edge bone ...-.---•-14 

A Round of Beef 15 

A Brisket of Beef 15 

TheNombril 15 

A Sirloin of Beef - - 15 

Ribs of Beef 15 

Mutton or Lamb ...-.-----16 

Names of Joints - - - - - - - - -16 

A Leg of Mutton, Roasted - - - - - - • * 16 

A Leg of Mutton, Boiled - 16 

A Shoulder of Mutton ------.---17 

A Haunch of Mutton -___---- 17 

A Saddle of Mutton --------- 18 

A Loin of Mutton ---------18 

A Fore-quarter of Lamb _-___--- 18 
Leg of Lamb and Loin of Lamb ------ 19 

Pork ------------19 

Names of Joints ---------19 

A Roast Pig -_---_---- 19 

A Leg of Pork _____---- 19 

A Loin of Pork - - - - - -- - -20 

A hand of Pork - - - - -- - - -20 

Veal ----____---20 

Names of Joints ---------?x 

A Fillet of Veal ---------20 

A Loin of Veal -___----- 21 

A Knuckle of Veal ---------21 

A Breast of Veal --------21 

A Gigot, Gigett of Veal --------22 

A Shoulder of Veal - __-_---^ 

A Calf's Head. Divided --------^ 

Gabie _-_-____---22 

A Haunch of Venison -______- 22 

A Hare _--___-. --^ 

A Rabbit, Roasted _-_------23 

A Rabbit, Boiled ---------23 

A Pheasant __-_------34 

A Partridge ----------24 

Grouse -------~-~'iz 

Ham and Tongue ___--__--24 
A Ham -----------as 

A Tongue - - ___-_---85 



DUTIES OF THE DINNER-TABLE. 



From time immemorial the master of the feast has been the server 
out of the good things placed before his guests, and so the ofRce of 
carver has always been held in the highest honor. In those early 
days, when animals were roasted whole, it was the custom to 
place before each guest some entii'e joint, in the way that we still 
do with poultry and game, and the higher the honor intended, the 
larger the portion. 

Benjamin's mess, to mark his brother's love, was "five times so 
much "as that of any of the other brothers; and the kings of 
Sparta, according to Herodotus, wei'e honored by a double portion 
of every dish. As time wore on, and with the spread of civiliza- 
tion greater refinement prevailed, the Greeks served joints instead 
of wliole animals at their tables, and dishes were spread along the 
board, into which the guests might dip their hands, and help them- 
selves at pleasure. 

The Romans held dexterity in carving in high repute: and there 
were regular professors to teach the art by means of figures of 
animals cut in wood, and to ensure adroitness and skill, the per- 
formance was regulated by the sounds of music, whence carvers 
were called Chironemontes, from the gesture of the hands, which 
marked the time. 

In the ages of chivalry, when the fork was unknown, the small 
dirk worn at the girdle did the duty of that useful adjunct to the 
dinner-table, and the household all dined at one and the same 
board, the family and honored guests above the salt, and the more 
dependent, with the retainers, below it. 

These colossal salt-cellars were of costly manufacture in the estab- 
lishments of the great; and in our museums they are now 
treasured, as exhibiting rare specimens of mediaeval gold and silver- 
work. But in tliose days a banquet was indeed a feast, as will be 
seen from the curious bill of fare of that given at the installation 
into the archbishopric of York, in 1470, of George Nevil, the 
brother of the Earl of Warwick, " the King-maker." 

This bill of fare is still preserved amongst the records in the 
Tower of London. After the guests had partaken of 80 fat oxen, 
6 wild bulls, 300 pi^s, 1,004 wethers, 300 hogs, 300 calves, 300 kids, 
and 4,000 bucks and does and roebucks — poultry and birds of every 
size, amounting in all to no less than 22,'204, were served round, 
besides eggs, jellies, and pastries, hot and cold, numbering some 
12,000, and by way of fish, 300 ^ikes, 300 breams, 8 seals, and 4 
porpoises. 

The carvers might have been ranged in battle array. Their 
chief, the great Earl of Warwick himself, who acted as steward, 
commanded the center, and the wings were intrusted to the Eari 



d ii^Gn flLkuM 



4 HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 

of Bedford, and to the most accomplished gentleman of that day 
— the Lord Hastings. 

But the introduction of the fork by Tom Coryate the traveler, 
about the year 1610, created quite a revolution in the art of carv- 
ing. Whatever may be said in favor of foreign cookery over our 
own, no one will deny that in this country the use of the knife 
and fork is better understood than it is by any other nation on 
the face of the earth; for it is seldom that an American, however 
poor, does not handle them as if from infancy he had been drilled 
to their use; whilst there are but few foreigners who, even after 
a lengthened sojourn amongst us, get over the awkwardness of 
clutching both, either in cutting their food, or more particularly, 
when dissecting poultry and game — a practice which seems to us 
as more in accordance with the shambles than with the usages of 
a well-regulated dinner-table. 

Though Coryate, like reformers of all abuses, was ridiculed in 
his day, and nicknamed Furcifer, or Fork, the usefulness of the 
new introduction gained it favor in the eyes of Royalty; for 
Coryate was a servitor of the Prince of Wales, and the sons of 
James the First were amongst the most polished gentlemen in 
Europe; so it is to them, next to *' Crudity Tom," that we are 
indebted for this very useful article of every-day life. Thus the 
fork became popular, and at first two prongs, and then three, 
were the complement. 

It has been said that to the French revolution of 1793 we are 
indebted for the introduction of the four flat-pronged fork, now 
mad'i of almost any kind of metal ; for as the atrocities of that 
fearful convulsion drove men into exile, who up to its outbreak 
had lived in luxury and ease, many brought with them their little 
stock of silver plate, the last relic of all their property. 

French cookery had necessitated a different instrument from 
our three-pronged fork. Ragouts and vegetable diet might be 
jnore readily eaten with a spoon, and probably a spoon split into 
four prongs was the first idea of a silver fork. 

In former days the office of " Grand Carver" was one of dignity 
in all households; but that was when animals were served up 
-whole. 

That office, however, no longer exists; for when the introduction 
of separate joints superseded the necessity of great bodily strength 
as well as dexterity in the carver, the host and hosts resumed 
the duty of assisting their guests at table. Then treatises were 
written on the art ; and carving found its place amongst the 
accomplishments of polite life. Lord Chesterfield, the great 
teacher of the superficial polish necessitated by the artificial state 
of modern manners, makes the art of carving an object of para- 
mount study to the finished man of the world. But in the middle 
ranks of life the modern science of carving is an accomplishment 
but too little studied before marriage, and consequently fre- 
quently never properly understood; and yet how much of the 
comfort of a household depends upon the master and mistress's 
knowledge of this necessary art ! Often a dinner is ruined — there 
is no other word to express the utter destruction of all comfort to 
the guests — by the ignorance of those who have to serve it out. 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 6 

" The best carver," says Dr. Kitchener, " is he who fills the great- 
est quantity of plates in the shortest space of time. " Of all the 
pests of society one of the least endurable is your slow carver. 
He eyes the jomt before him, after the cover has been removed, as 
if in doubt as to its identity. The gravy is setting and the choice 
fat getting cold ; and then, having at length satisfied himself that 
the meat is mutton and not beef, he slowly examines his knife to 
see whether the edge be keen enough, instead of at once plunging 
right into the middle of the leg, and proving that a good work- 
man can even under difficulties turn out his work to his own 
satisfaction and that of others. No amount of skill compensates 
for slowness, and he who can serve four persons in the same time 
that it takes a dilatory carver to help one, will always carry away 
the palm from the latter. \ 

There is another rule of equal importance, and that is, to re- 
member that all who sit at the same table, for the time being, 
enjoy something very nearly approaching to an equality. As 
each person, therefore, cannot have all choice parts of the joint, 
► we should endeavor so to serve them round, that everyone may 
come in for a share. 

"Let strict impartiality preside — 
Nor freak, nor favor, nor affection guide." 

As it is ill-bred in a guest to ask for any favorite bit, and equally 
ill-bred in the carver to mention it, when such a predilection is 
known to the latter as being entertained by anyone at the table, 
he has the opportunity of paying a compliment, which is sure to 
be well received. 

Many a friendship is strengthened by these little attentions; 
for the small civilities of life are, after all, the most binding ties, 
and upon them frequently the whole happiness of home depends. 
As far as your knowledge of your guests goes, 

Study their genius, caprices, gout — 
They in return may haply study you ; 
Some wish a pinion, some prefer a leg, 
Some for a merry-thought, or side-bone beg. 
The wings of fowls, thin slices of the Round, 
The trail of woodcock, of codfish the sound, 

are but a few of the tit-bits which a good carver should not 
throw away upon people who pretend "not to mind what they 
eat." The Johnsonian maxim is best given in the Doctor's own 
words: " Some people," said he, " have a foolish way of not mind- 
ing, or pretending not to mind, what they eat ; for my part I 
mind my stomach very studiously and very carefully, and 1 look 
upon it that he who does not mind his stomach, will hardly mind 
anything else. 

To carve quickly and neatly requires a good deal of practice, 
and the earlier in life it is begun, the sooner will that double left- 
handed ignorance be got rid of, which serves but to haggle and 
destroy the food placed before us. Cold joints are not so difficult 
to manage as hot, and young people should be encouraged to 
learu the use of the carving-knife and fork upon them, almost a§ 



6 HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 

soon as the hand is sufficiently developed to grasp the handles. 

It cannot have escaped the notice of the most superficial, that a 
person of refinement enjoys his food all the more when the plate 
is not overcrowded, but served up in slices neither too thick nor 
too thin. This rule will apply to all hot joints, whether roast or 
boiled; and in the case of carcass- joints, the carver should first 
ascertain whether the cook has previously properly divided the 
bones ; for unless that be done, no one can carve the joint with 
comfort to himself or those around him. 

In the following instructions on carving, which are intended as 
a companion to The Handy Book on Domestic Cookery, we 
have taken some pains to point out which joints should be 
served in thin, and which in thick slices. 

A carver should know not only what are, but also what fashion 
or even caprice may consider the most choice morsels of every 
dish placed before him. Venison fat, the delicate fatty slices in 
that part of a shoulder of mutton which is next to the back bone, 
the pope's-eye of a leg of mutton, veal and lamb kidney, the ribs 
and neck of roast jjig — the firm gelatinous parts of a cod's head, 
the thin part of salmon, of all flat fish the thick parts, and of 
small fish, like mackerel, the piece near the head — the white meat 
of fowls, the breast and thighs of turkey or goose, the breast and 
legs of duck, the wings and breasts of game — all these are ad- 
mitted delicacies. Then, fashion and caprice consider equally so 
the eye of the cod, and the tongue and the sound of the same fish, 
the fins of large flat fish, and the head of the carp; the shank of a 
leg of mutton, the English, or inside of the sirloin of beef, with 
its marrow fat; the gristles of a breast of veal, and the kidney 
fat of the loin; the ear and jaw of roast pig, the bitter back of 
moor game, and the head of pheasant and partridges. 

At the dinner-table madr-dishcs form no small part of a well- 
arranged banquet. The name is suggestive of more elaborate 
cookery than plain roasting, boiling, frying, or broiling. French 
dishes are almost all included in this nomenclature, and, there- 
fore, a made -dish, though only cold meat re-dressed, generally 
also implies a savory and well-seasoned dish. Many of these are 
covered with glaze. A frieandeau of veal is a favorite dish 
throughout Europe, and will, perhaps, best illustrate what we 
wish to say. In helping made-dishes of this (les<*ription the slices 
of meat should be about half-an-inch in thickness, because if cut 
thinner the lai'ding is not lielped in due proportion, and that is one 
I'eason why, though long since naturalized, it is not always a very 
successful side-dish in this country. The same applies to veau a 
la dauhe which is formed out of the loin of veal, the edge-bone 
being withdrawn, and the hollow thus formed filled with relishing 
forced-meat. This, also, is usually served in glaze. It is not a 
dish for a novice to serve, and has chiefly been noticed to inculcate 
the necessity of always helping, with m,ade-dishes, sufficient of the 
saA^ory sauces, upon which in so great a measure depends the relish 
with which ragouts are eaten. There is no end of made-dishes; 
but most of them require only to be served as they are placed at 
table, and we have instanced but two, which are favorites, because 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 7 

an inexperienced hand might not be aware that in general thick 
slices should be served round. 

There is scarcely any domestic accomplishment more graceful in 
tly mistress of a family than that of being able calmly and quiet- 
ly to carve or serve out the viands placed before her. Generally 
supported at a dinner-party by a guest of whose knowledge of the 
art she Is ignorant, the weii-practiced hostess is independent and 
free from all anxiety, knowing her own power to distribute round 
the table both poultry and game, as the case may i-equire. It is 
at her end of the table that, in a general way, poultry finds its 
place. 

To her husband is entrusted the carving of the joint, the piece 
de resistance, that joint, which all who sit down to table w ith 
sharpened appetites, are sure to keep in constant requisition, till 
the cravings of nature are satisfied. It is, therefore, the more nec- 
essary that an early knowledge of the art of serving poultry 
should be acquired by girls in middle-class life, 

"To dance in hall, and carve at board " 
have long been considered part of the education of the aristocracy 
of England. 

As to the appliances of the table, these, of course, must be reg- 
ulated by the circumstances of the host and hostess. It saves 
much time to place on the cloth at once for each guest a large and 
small knife and fork, a dessert spoon, and, what is now both cheap 
and common, a fish-knife, either silver or electro-plated, which is 
driving its former semi- barbarous bread substitute into the mem- 
ory of the past. Add to these a wineglass and a tumbler, to- 
gether with a napkin enclosing the bread — the best way of plac- 
ing the latter on the table. Mustard, pepper, and salt should be 
easily accessible, and castors with the usual condiments and 
sauces, exclusive of those, be on the table. As little time as possi- 
ble should be lost in removing one course and replacing it by that 
which is to follow, the human stomach does not like to be trifled 
with, and, "good digestion to wait on appetite," can only be se- 
cured by attention to this rule. 



HOW TO CARVE^ 

ETC., ETC. 



SOUP. 



Soups take precedence at the table, and are not inaptly called 
"the vestibule of dinner." 

Where they are clear, or the thickening held in solution, as in 
" Cressi " soups, the principal care should be not to serve out too 
little — not to fill the plate too full, nor to send it away with 
scarcely enough to cover its nakedness. Where clear soups have 
vegetables introduced, as " Julienne," or those denotingtheir vege- 
table enrichment, as asparagus, green pea, celery, &c., a little judg- 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 



ment is required to serve out the liquids and solids in due propor- 
tion to the number of guests, and according to the season of the 
year. 

The same rule will apply to fish -soups, such as water-souc%-, 
and to game soups, as hare or partridge soup, as \vell as to all brown 
soups, which have meat and forced-meatballs to be served up with 
the liquid, as ox-tail, mock-turtle, mullaga-tawny, &c., and to 
white soups, where macaroni, vermicelli, or the breast of chickens 
are component parts. 

In distributing turtle-soup, no practiced hand will send green fat 
without first asking the question whether it is objectionable. It is 
too great a delicacy to risk the loss of the portion, and without 
the most adroit management, it is almost sure to run short before 
all tlie guests are served. 



FISH. 



A few general rules will apply to all kinds of fish. The person 
who serves it should always remember that the thickest part is 
usually the choicest, and therefore a careful distributor, before he 
commences operations will measure with his eye both the number 
to be served and the size of the fish. All boiled flat fish, if not too 
small, may be apportioned after the manner of turbot, and all 
boiled fish of similar shape and dimensions to mackerel, in the 
same way as that would be served. 

Fried fish, if not already separated when brought to table, is to 
be cut up in broad slices, the head and tale being left on the dish. 
Whiting is served up whole. 




TURBOT, 

Like all flat fish, is of more delicate flavor in the under side, which 
is represented in the annexed figure, the whole of which is con- 
sidered unexceptionable. The finest cuts are those nearest the 
middle, and the fin is counted a gi-eat delicacy. Insert the fish 
knife just below the head at the point marked A, and carry it 
down to the point above the tail, marked B. Serve the whole of 
this upper side in slices from C to D, and from C to E, helping al- 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 9 

ways a portion of each. Should more be required, lift up the 
back-bone with the fork, and with the knife or slice separate a 
portion of the upper side. The flesh on this side is firmer than 
that of the under side, and for that reason some persons prefer it. 
Always add a portion of the fin as long as it lasts. 




SALMON 
Is seldom served whole, a piece out of the middle, whether crimp- 
ed or not, being that usually selected. Such a piece as that repre- 
sented in the engraving is called the prime. Insert the fish-knife 
or slice at the point marked A ; carry it down to that marked B. 
Make a similar incision from that marked C to D. Then serve in 
slices, the solid part at least half an inch thick, and about five or 
six inches in length, and the thin in less proportions, helping each 
person to a slice of the solid and lean from A to B, and of the soft 
and fat from C to D. When the fish is very large, like coarse 
Hamburgh or Dutch salmon, the knife should not be allowed to 
penetrate to the bone. Should a small salmon be served whole, 
recollect that the finest part is towards the head. 



COD'S HEAD AND SHOULDERS, 

If sufficiently boiled, is easily served. The back of the fish 
should be placed towards the carver, and the first incision is to be 
made from A to C. Then enter the fish- carver at A, and cut 
down to the bone in the direction of B, and do the same from C 
to D, and help from this opening, right and left, one slice of each 
to every guest, being careful not to make a jagged surface by 
breaking the fiakes. The gelatinous parts about the neck and 
head are prized, as is also the sound. The palate and tongue, if 
asked for, must be got at with a spoon. The sound lies in th© 
UiyiM' part of the fisU, wd js found by introducing a spoou into 



10 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 



it, between the points B and D. Some cut the fish lengthways 
when not crimped. 




MACKEREL. 

Separate the head from the body at A, and then serve an entire 
side of small fish. Where the fish is large serve only the larger 
half of a side from A to B, the part nearest the head being the 
choicest. Do not split the piece from B to the tail, but serve it as 
one portion. Thus a large mackerel will serve three people. As 
thei'e are fancies about the roe, it is as well to ask which kind is 
preferred. The soft roe marks the male, and the hard roe the 
female fish. 

POULTRY 

Requires more careful carving than anything else brought to 
table. As a general rule the white meat is considered the greater 
delicacy. 




A FOWL ROASTED 

May be removed from the dish to the carver's plate; and as fowls 
are' generally served in couples, this does not disarrange the 
economy of the table. The fork should be iJlaced in the centei' of 
the breast, and the knife be carried down from A to C Then, 
inserting your knife under the leg at B, cut downwards as far as 
( ', and separate the ligature near that point, when, jerking the 
leg back, the parts will give way. Next separate the joint at A 
with the edge of the knife, and carrj'^ it through to B, when the 
wing is easily detached. Separate the other wing and leg in the 
same way. The merry thought at D is easily removed by insert- 
ing the knife according to the line marked, and bending it back. 
Then remove the neck-bones E to I) by putting the fork through 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 11 



them, and wrenchiug them carefully away so as not to break 
them. The breast must be next separated by cutting right 




through the ribs to the points C and C. Then turn the fowl back 
upwards on your plate, as shown in the second figure; cut it up 
by following the lines G to F and H and H, which will give the 
side-bones. 




A FOWL BOILED 

May be cut up in a similar way, though some first remove the 
wing C to A, and next the leg A to B. By some the side-bones 
and the liver wing are considered dainties, whilst others prefer 
ihe merry-thought D, and the neck-bones. The prime parts, how- 
ever, of a fowl, either roast or boiled, are generally considered the 
wings and breast, and where ladies are at table it is customary to 
apportion these joints to them. Capons and Cochin China fowls 
may be carved in the same way as a turkey 




A TURKEY ^oteED 

May be served in the same way as a boiled fowl, excepting that, 
as the breast is the most delicate part, and affords many good 
slices, these should be cut lengthways, and, with thin portions of 
the stuffing, be handed round first. Where th6 bird is large the 
whole of the breast may be served in such slices, and these a ju- 



12 HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 

dicious carver will eke out with slices from the inner part of the 
thigh, sliding to ladies of coui'se, only the former, but to male 
guests one of each. 




A TURKEY ROASTED 
May be served in the same way as a roasted fowl, excepting as 
ret^ards the breast. That should be sent round in the same way 
as a boiled turkey. In both cases it must be borne in mind that 
the turkey is a dullard, and though it has a breast-bone, it never 
had a merry-thought. Where sausages or forced-meat balls are 
placed on the dish they must be served to every guest. 



A GOOSE. 

The first slices should be cut down to the breast-bone in the direc- 
tion of A to B, and be helped round as long as they last. Under 
the apron, which must be cut open at F E G, will be found 
the stuffing, part of which should be served with each helping. 

If more be required the carver must next proceed to take off a 
leg and wing, by inserting his fork through the small end of the 
former, pressing it closely to the body, entering his knife at D, 
ji ad jerking the leg smartly back, when the joint will separate. 
Mild it may then be readily cut off in the direction D E. The 
wing is easily taken off. Place the fork in the small end of the 
pinion, and pressing it close to the body, separate the joint with 
the knife at C, and cut off the wing iii the direction C D. Tlie 
fU.'shy part of the wing and the thigh are the most favorite pieces 
after the breast, The one should be separated from the pinion 
and the other from the drunistiok. The neck and side-bones 
should also be sei'ved previous to the back or the drumsticks. 
These latter, with "the miter," or jQweP part 9tt>h^ feapkj 9.1'^ geU- 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 13 

A GREEN GOOSE 
Should be cut up like a duck, but only about a couple of slices 
taken -fi-om the breast before it is served round in separate joints, 
the remainder of the breast counting for one. It is customary 
eutii-ely to dissect the bii-d before helping anyone at table. 




A DUCK 

May be carved much in the same way as a goose. The slices 
from the breast are cut from A to B. The leg is removed by 
cutting in the dii'ection D to E, awd the wing by performing a 
similar operation from C to D. The merry -thought is between 
the letters G and F. 

DUCKLINGS 
Are carved the same way as pigeons. 




PIGEONS 

Are usually carved into four pieces, by inserting the knife at A, 
cutting in the direction of A B and A C, and then dividing each 
piece in half. Many persons cut them through the middle length- 
ways, and serve half the bird to each guest. Half a pigeon is not 
considered too much to be placed on a plate at once. 



JOINTS 

Are always the great staple of any dinner, and therefore no 
one should be ignorant of the proper mode of carving them. The 
carver should always remember that hot joints are intended to be 
eaten hot, and that to cut the slices neither too thick nor too thi» 
is the best way of helping all roast and boiled meats. 



14 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 



BEEP. 




NAMES OF JOINTS. 

Hind Quarter,— 1. Sirloin. 2. Rump, 
tock. 5. Mouse-buttock. 6. King piece, 
flank. 9. Leg. 10. Fore-ribs— 5 ribs. 

Fore-Quarter. — 11. Mid-ribs. — 4 ribs. 12. 
Shoulder or leg-of-mutton piece. 14. Brisket, 
or sticking-piece. 17. Shin. 18. Cheek. 



Aitch-Bone. 
Thick flank. 



4. But- 
8. Thin 



Chuck— 3 ribs. 13. 
15. Cod. 16. Neck 




AN EDGE-BONE, 
Aitch-bone, Heuck-bone, or, H. bone op beef— for the deriva- 
tion of the name is lost in the remotest antiquity — is the most 
.favorite joint of salt beef. In all boiled meats the outer slice 
should be cut off, because the outside, by boiling, becomes hard and 
dry. In this particular case it is doubly necessary that a thick 
slice should be taken off in the direction of A to B; for the salting 
has hardened it no less than the boiling. Then help handsome, 
smooth, thin slices, giving with each plate a little of the marrowy 
fat at C, and a little of the solid fat at D, Some recommend the 
slices to be a trifle thicker at A, and to taper off to B ; for the line 
E to B indicates the prime cuts of the joint. No fluid should 
be placed in the dish, as the gravy that flows from the meat is all 
tbat is required. 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 15 

A ROUND OF BEEF 
Is carved in the same way as the edge-bone, and the slices must be 
cut as thin as possible, after having removed a very thick outside 
slice to another dish. 

A BRISKET OF BEEF 

Is cut down to the bone the long way, in rather thin slices, as the 
piece is fat and gristly, and all tat meat requires care not to serve 
U\e fat in too solid a mass. 

THE NOMBRIL, 

Or navel piece, is frequently boiled fresh. The lower part is con- 
sidered the most delicious, and therefore it is customary to ask 
whether the upper or lower be preferred. 



A SIRLOIN OF BEEF 

Is said to be a " knightly joint, and worthy of golden spurs." There 
are two ways of carving it. That which is the more ancient is 
still the most prevalent, and that is to serve it in long slices from 
B to A, which of itself apportions the fat to the lean. The other 
way is to begin in the middle and cut it across. In either case, a 
piece of the soft marrowy fat should accompany the slice, along 
with a sufficiency of gravy, which a generous joint will supply 
to the last. The browned outside should be offered, but not sent 
without asking. Many prefer the under side. In that case the 
joint must be turned over, and cross slices cut from thence, begin- 
ning at the point C. 

RIBS OF BEEF 

Are carved in the same way as the sirloin, under its first and 
eai'lier method, care being taken to commence always at the 
thinnest part of the meat. When the ribs are boned and the meat 
yoUed like a fllle|; of veal they are cut up like that joint. 



16 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 



MUTTON OR LAMB. 




NAMES OF JOINTS. 

1. Leg. 2. Loin, best end. 3. Loin, chump end. 4. Neck, 
best end. 5. Neck, scrag end. 0. Head. 7. Breast. 8. Shoulder. 
A chine is two necks; a saddle is two loins. 




A LEG OF MUTTON, ROASTED. 
After reversing the dish, by turning the knuckle to the left, 
make an incision according to the line A B, through the pope's 
eye, and then cutting slices right and left. The fat is on the thin 
side nearest the dish, and the cramp-bone, which is now but seldom 
asked for, though at one time in much demand, can be removed 
by cutting iu a semi-circular direction from D to C. 




A LEG OF MUTTON, BOILED, 
Is served as represented in the cut. Its most juicy part is alwut 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 



17 



the middle or thick of the thigh. The shank should lie to the car- 
ver's left hand. Tlie first cut should be made from A to B, right 
through the uoix or kernel, called the pope's eye. The fat lies in 
two directions, marked by the letters I) and C C From each of 
these a nice slice should be cut, and with the gravy from the meat, 
helped round with each portion. Some persons serve the other 
side uppermost, as represented in the roasted leg. 




A SHOULDER OF MUTTON, 

Which Quin delighted in hot, and George III., or "Farmer 
George," luxuriated in cold, has many nice cuts, those between C 
C and t> D being the richest, and those at A B the most solid of the 
lean. The fat should be cut in straight slices as marked at E, and 
near to it some epicure's slices may be found, as all that part of 
the animal which is near the back-bone is prized as such. The 
under side is best cold • but if served hot, the oyster pieces to its 
right, and the hillock produce the prime slices, which must be cut 
horizontally. 




A HAUNCH OF MUTTON, 

Consists of the leg and part of the loin. First pass the knife from 
the point A in a straight line to the bone to let the gravy flow ; ov, 
better still, make an incision at B of about two or three inches 
long, at right angles with the line C D. That done, cut thin slices 
from C towards D, but stopping short at the incision B, right and 
left. The fat must also be cut in thin slices: and the gravy, which 
will collect in a copious pool at the incision B, must be served round 
with the meat. The dish should be so placed gs ^0 en^blo tJlQ 
Garyer tPeuHbe glJc^g towards liinisglt 



18 HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 




A SADDLE OF MUTTON 

Which is always a favorite .ioint, consists of two loins. Make an 
incision either at C or D, stoi)ping just short of the back-bone. 
Then cut up one side before you begin upon tlie other, and let the 
slices be of moderate thickness from A to B, serving with each a 
thin slice of fat, cut lengthways from the outer edge of the lower 
sides. Having finished one side, pursue a similar line of operations 
with the other. Help to each guest some of the gravy out of the 
nieat, which will collect at the incisions C and D. The nnder part 
is seldom served hot, yet it contains some very delicate eating. 

A LOIN OF MUTTON 

Should always be jointed either by the butcher or cook before it 
is sent to table. The carver merely separates the meat into chops, 
beginning at the narrow end, and serves them round. 




A FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB 

Requires a careful carver to do it justice. Sometimes he will have 
first to separate the shoulder from tlie ribs. To do this it will be 
7iecessary to insert the fork towards the knuckle, and to cut with 
the knife held horizontally, from C round B to A, and then to raise 
the fork, cutting through the meat of the flap, so as not to leave 
the ribs too bare. In a well regulated family, however, all this 
trouble is spared the carver — the cook having seen to the separa- 
tion before hand — and he has only to lift the shoulder with the 
fork, and to place it on a separate dish. He must then separate 
the brisket from the ribs (if not already done), by cutting straight 
across from A to D. To a novice tliis is no easy matter; but 
practice soon makes perfect. The more solid meat lies to the 
right of the line E F, and the brisket is to be served in squares, ns 
shown at G H E. A i:)ortion of each is usually placed on the plate. 



HOW TO CARVE AXD ^ERVE A DINNER. 10 



Where that practice does not prevail the choice is ribs, brisket, or 
shoulder; the latter being carved like a shoulder of mutton. 

LEG OF LAMB AND LOIN OF LAMB 
Are carved exactly as mutton, but the fat being more delicate, it 
is handed round with a more liberal hand. 

PORK. 




NAMES OF JOINTS. 

1. The spare rib. 2. The hand. 3. The belly or spring. 4. 
Fore-loin. 5. Hind-loin. 6. Leg. 7. Head. 

A ROAST PIG. 
To eat this with a proper zest, a copy of Ella's Essays should be 
at the carver's right hand; for without it he will forget half the 
dainties which Charles the inimitable has pointed out as nestling 
about the ribs and neck, and ears and jaw of the little favorite. 
It is usually cut up before it is sent to table, and the cook should be 
told to divide the head. The carver must then remove the brains 
and mix them with the gravy and stuffing. The pig is cut asunder 
from the shoulder to the tail, right down the center of the back, 
and subdivided into squares. Help each, with its proper adjunct 
of gravy and stuffing, with a liberal hand; for to help roast pig 
niggardly was deemed a gross insult by Doctor Parr, and others 
may have the like notion. The ribs are still esteemed by some 
the" best eating, though by others the neck is preferred. The ear 
and jaw are considered delicacies; but the fact is the whole is 
good eating, and the carver has only to see that it is served as hot 
as possible. 




A LEG OF PORK 
Should be cut acrosis as marked in the direction of A to B. If 



30 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 



boiled, the slices are served thinner than when roasted. In the 
latter case the carver is somewhat regulated by the incisions made 
in the skin before roasting, and which are known as "crackling," 
to lovers of the dish. Having made incisions from A to B, the 
cuts are made right and left alternately. The seasoning will be 
found under the skin, to the left of A ; but many persons send the 
seasoning in the dish. 

A LOIN OP PORK 
Is carved as a loin of mutton, placing one chop upon each plate. 

A HAND OF PORK 
May be carved by cutting slices across, as in a shoulder of mutton, 
and also from off the blade-bone. 

VEAL. 




NAMES OF JOINTS. 

1. Loin, best end. 8. Loin, chump end. 3. Fillet. 4. Hind- 
knuckle. 5. Fore-knuckle. 6. Neck, best end. 7. Neck, scrag 
end. 8. Blade-bone. 9. Breast, best end. 10. Breast, brisket end. 




A FILLET OF VEAL 
Is cut in the same way as a round of beef ; but as the browned 
outside is considered a choice part, it should be ascertained 
whether outside or inside be preferred. The horizontal slices 
should be delicately cut, and to everyone a portion of the stuffing 
placed at C D shoud be served, with a little fat, which will bO 

found L»etwe§w A a.ud D. 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 



21 




LOIN OP VEAL 



May be cut up either into single chops, dividing the meat into 
handsome sli(fes, and serving the bone with one, or, if the joint 
chosen be the chump end, in long slices, from B to A. The end 
nearest B contains the more solid meat. The fat and kidney are 
underneath. The latter is considered the epicure's portion, and 
should not be forgotten. 




A KNUCKLE OF VEAL, 

" Whether you buy it or steal it," is not a dish to be despised and 
reserved only for the sick-room. As a veal soup it is in great 
favor in Scotland, and though not popular as a joint, there are 
not wanting those with whom it is a great favorite. It requires 
a little practice to carve a knuckle of veal neatly, and with satis- 
faction to one's self. It must be cut in the direction of B to A, 
and then divide the bones from C to D. The fat is considered a 
delicacy. It will be found close to B. 




A BREAST OF VEAL 

Consists of gristles and ribs, and it is necessary to separate them 
by cutting fi-om A to B. Then divide the ribs by following the 



23 HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 

line indicated by C B. The sweetbread at E should be served 
round with each plate. The gristles will be found at D. The 
choice is gristles or ribs. 

A GIGOT, OR GIGETT OF VEAL 
Is either cut in horizontal slices, or as a leg of mutton, beginning 
near to the broad end. 

A SHOULDER OF VEAL 
Is served like a shoulder of mutton. Neither the gigot nor 
shoulder is much prized unless the veal be small, when they are 
delicate eating. 




A CALF'S HEAD, DIVIDED. 
In serving this favorite dish take care to press the knife to the 
bone, cutting slices from A to B. The root of the tongue is in- 
dicated by the line C D, and should be served, round to those that 
like it. There is some delicate meat under the jaw-bone. Tlie 
brains and tongue are placed on a separate dish, but care should 
be taken to serve some to each guest. Do this also with the palate, 
seated under the head, which should be therefore cut in small 
pieces before you begin to help round. The eye, which some 
fancy, should be divided. 



GAME 

Requires more attention than poultry ; because, being in the first 
place less plentiful, a skillful carver must make the most of \\ hat 
is placed before him ; and in the second place, as the cold birds 
come in well at the breakfast and the lunch-table, it is often »s 
well not to cut off more than is required for the immediate oc- 
casion. 

A HAUNCH OF VENISON 
Is cut just like a haunch of mutton. The incision at A is made 
to allow the gravy to flow. Some persons cut through from C to 
D, and help their slices alternately from right to left. The fat, 
which is highly prized, will be foimd chiefly on the left side. 
When it is the haunch of a hunted buck or doe, make the incision 
at B, as recommended in a haunch of mutton. Recollect that, 
unless venison bo fat, it is but mocking the appetite of your 
guests to place it before them, and that everybody likes venison 
fat. Buck venison is in greatest perfection from Midsummer to 
Michaelmas, and Doe venison from November to January. The 
*' Alderman's walk," the primest part of the joint, is in the side 
where the fat abounds. 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. -23 




A HARE 

Is usually sent to table on her haunches. The best way is to in- 
sert the knife at A, and run it along to B, repeating the same op- 
eration both sides of the hare. If the hare be large, a couple r»f 
long slices may first be taken from either side. If so, the legs 
must next be taken off and then separate the shoulders at the cir- 
cular line CAD. The back is now to be cut through in three or 
four pieces as marked, going right through the spine. The legs 
should be divided into two. Divide also the head by inserting 
the point of the knife at the top, and cut it through in the direc- 
tion of the nose. 8ome persons first separate the upper from the 
under jaw. The ears should be cut off close to the roots. The 
head, brains, and ears, are by some considered dainty morsels. 
It is becoming the fashion to have hares boned before roasting, 
which saves the carver an immensity of trouble. No old hare 
should be roasted, unless previously boned; let it be jugged; this 
is the best way of serving it, for it requires gi'eat experience to 
serve an old liare. It is customary in some localities to cut up 
the whole before any is served. The stuffing, to be sent with 
every plate, will be found inside. 

A RABBIT ROASTED 

Is served in the same way as a hare ; but, being of less dimen- 
sions, the back is cut in fewer pieces. The head is not sent un- 
less it is asked for. It is alvvaj^s a wild rabbit that is roasted. It 
is Hither stuffed as a hare, or, when young, merely served with its 
own liver sauce. 



A RABBIT BOILED 

May be cut in the same way as its roasted brother. The middle 
piece of the back is the efiicure's choice. Ostend rabbits are best 
boiled or curried. The remains of either roast or boiled rabbits 
or game may be formed into quenelles, or forced- meat rissoles — a 
favorite side dish. 



24 HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 



A PHEASANT 

Is carved partly like a duck and partly like a fowl. The breast 
should be cut up in slices from A to B, fixing first the fork in its 
center. Then take off the legs at D E, and the wings at C D, 
being careful to hit the exact point between the wing and the 
neckbone. Next remove the merrythought G F, and the neck- 
bones, side-bones, etc., as directed to be done with a roast fowl. 
Split open the head, as many consider the brains a luxury. 




A PARTRIDGE 

Is carved in the same way as a fowl. The breast, wings, and 
merrythought are the best pickings. The wing, marked A, and 
the leg, marked B, are taken off at the dotted line. The merry- 
thought is at the point C D, and the split head must be sent if 
asked for. Where the guests are few a partridge is sometimes only 
divided into two, which is called "the bachelor fashion." 



GROUSE 

Are carved like partridges; and woodcocks, snipes, quails, field- 
fare, and other similar birds, either in the same way when there 
is a scarcity at the table, or if plentiful, they are merely cut in 
halves. Upon this point the carver must exercise his own dis- 
cretion. 

HAM AND TONGUE 

Are concomitants to so many of the good things brought to the 
festive board, thftt they may well claim a parting word from us, 



HOW TO CARVE AND SERVE A DINNER. 25 




A HAM 

Should be cut deliciously thin, not foolishly so. The most pre- 
valent way is to begin cutting your slices at the line indicated by 
A B, and proceed towards the thick end. That contains all the 
prime cuts. The knuckle is best dried and grated. A baked ham 
eats shorter than a boiled one, and the slices may be cut much 
thinner. Mutton hams are served in the same way as ham. 




A TONGUE 

Is best in the thickest part, and therefore the proper way is to 
cut it nearly through at the line A B. Then serve it in thin slices 
right and left, helping fat to those who ask for it from the under 
side. A stewed tongue makes a savory dish, and is generally 
served in its own sauce, with small niTishrooms or onions. The 
slices are cut from the root to the tip, lengthways. 

These instructions will aid the careful housewife to profit more 
fully by our Economical Cookery and Hints on Domestic Manage- 
m^ent. The art of carving not only enables us to place food more 
temptingly before our guests, but it also prevents waste, and many 
a dish of relishing food, though consisting but of pickings, may 
appear with all propriety at a subsequent supper or dinner, either 
cold or in another shape, provided it has met with fair treatment 
on its first appearance. If a joint of meat be not hacked and 
mangled, even though nothing but the bone remain, garnished 
with a few sprigs of parsley, it will form a sightly dish, and par- 
ticularly fragments of poidti-y and game, nicely arranged with 
similar garnishing, make a tasty supper dish. 



HOW TO BREW; 



^FROM— 



A BARREL OF BEER 

I 



—TO — 



A BOWL OF BISHOP 



One sip of this 
Will bathe the drooping spirits in delight 
Beyond the bliss of dreams. Be wise, and taste. 

—MILTON. 



NEW YORK: 

NOKMAN L. MUNRO, PUBLISHER, 

14 & 16 VANDEWATER STREET. 



CONTENTS 



Introduction . . , . 

Brewing , . . , 

The Brewery .... 
Brewing Utensils 
Preparation for Brewing 

Malt 

Hops . . . . , 

Water . , . , 

Mashing . . . . ► 

Boiling, Cooling, and Fermenting 

Cleansing and Flavoring Beer 

Porter Brewing for Families 

To calculate the gravity of Mixed Wort 

Fermentation 

The Beer Cellar 

Brewing Red Hot 

To Make Beer with Sugar 

Treacle Beer 

Pale Ale . . . . 

Instantaneous Beer 

Beer from Potatoes 

Spruce Beer .... 

To Convert Sour Beer into Vinegar . 

To Correct Acidity in Beer or Cider 

To Recover Ropy Beer or Cider 

To Make Ginger'Beer 

How to Brew a Bowl of Punch 

Another Method 

Milk Punch .... 

Another Method 

Cold Punch .... 

George the Fourth's Punch 

Norfolk Punch .... 

Bishop .... 

Syllabub .... 

Cool Cup . . 

Cool Cider Cup . . , . 

Purl 

Warm Ale Cup . 

Egg Flip 

Egg Hot ..... 

Sailor's Flip .... 

A Stimulating Tonic for Invalids 

A Grateful Beverage for a Cold Morning 

Cordials and Compounds 

Liqueurs, Ratafias, &c. 

Bitters ..... 



HOW TO BREW; 

FROM 

A BARREL OF BEER TO A BOWL OF BISHOP. 



INTRODUCTION. 

Beer has been for many ages a staple commodity with the Eng- 
lish. Its origin is generally considered to have been derived f roin 
Egypt, and it may be considered as the wine of the northern coun- 
tries. The British Poets, from Chaucer downwards, have sung its 
praises; and the good old " nut brown ale " has long been the boast 
of our forefathers. The " moist and corny ale " of Chaucer's time 
would be a queer medley to our modern palates, being composed 
of a decoction of malt and oats, bittered by broom, bay berries, or 
ivy berries, and it is stated that the ale was almost certain to get 
eager before it got ripe. Hollinshed mentions that it was the cus- 
tom to " eke" out the malt with a liberal admixture of unraalted 
oats, and it appears that an inferior sort of oat-ale was much used 
in families. 

In 1428, the British Pai-liament was petitioned against the use of 
hops as a wicked weed ; and they were first used in the brewing of 
malt liquors in 1538. 

About the time of Shakspere, hops began to be generally used in 
the brewing of beer, and were probably a foreign importation 
from the vicinity of the Pomeranian Hanse Towns, where they 
were grown as eai'ly as the thirteenth century, and beer formed 
one of the staple articles of export of these communities. Stow 
mentions, that in the year 1585, there were about twenty-six 
brewers in the city, suburbs, and Westminster, whereof the one- 
half were strangers and the other half English; so that it is not 
unlikely the knowledge of hops, with their use, was first intro- 
duced into England by those strangers who were capable of teach- 
ing the method of using them. The term " beer" is said to have 
come with the hops to distinguish the liquid brewed from it from 
the old-fashioned ale. 

About the time of Elizabeth beer began to rise in the estimation 
of the public, and the increase of the alehouses alarmed the author- 
ities and the Lord Mayor, who aided by the magistrates of Lam- 
beth and Southwark, suppressed above two hundred of them 
within their jurisdiction. 

In the Annual Register for 1760 we have the following account 
of the beer trade ;— "Iw the beginning of the reign of Williamj 



3a HOW TO BREW. 



brown ale, which was a heavy, sweet liquor, was sold for sixteen 
shillings the barrel, and small beer for six shillings the barrel, 
which the customers paid for in ready money, and fetched front 
the brewery themselves. 

" A change came over the character of London beer in the reign 
of Queen Anne, owing to two different causes; the duty imposed 
upon malt and hops, and taxes on account of the war with 
France, on the one hand, and the more frequent residence of the 
gentry in London on the other. The duty on malt exceeding that 
on hops, the brewers endeavored at a liquor in which more of the 
latter should be used. The people, not easily weaned from the 
sweet clammy drink to which they had been accustomed, drank 
ale mixed with the new-fashioned bitter beer, which they got 
from the victualler. This is the earliest trace our antiquarian 
searches have enabled us to detect of the very palatable beverage 
' half and half.' The gentry introduced the pale ale, and pale small 



beer, which prevailed in the country; and either engaged some of 
their friends or some of the London trkde to brew their liquors 
for them. The pale beers being originally intended for a more 
affluent and luxurious class, the brewers who engaged in this 
new branch of business paid more attention to the condition in 
which it was delivered, increased their store of casks, and kept 
them in better order. The pale ale was more exp^ensive than the 
London beers; its price was thirty shillings a barrel, whilst the 
brown ale was selling at nineteen shillings and twen^ slaillings, and 
the bitter beer at twenty -two shillings a barrel. But the spread- 
ing of a taste for the new drink, and the establishment of 'pale 
ale-houses,' stimulated the brown beer trade to produce a better 
article than they had hitherto made They began to hop their 
mild beer more; and the publicans started three, four, and some- 
times six butts at a time; but so little idea had the bi'ewer or his 
customer of being at the charge of large stocks of beer, that it gave 
jMDom to a set of moneyed people to make a trade by buying these 
beers from the brewers, keeping them some time, and selling them, 
when stale, to publicans for twenty-five shillings or twenty-six 
shillings a butt. Our tastes but slowly alter or reform: some 
drank mild beer and stale; others, what was then called three 
threads, at threepence a quart ; but many used all stale, at four- 
pence a quart." 

The malt liquors usually drank in London about this time by 
the pooi'er classes were ale, beer, and twopenny; and it was cus- 
tomary for the drinkers of beer to call for a pint or a tankard of 
three threads, meaning a thii'd of each — ale, beer, and twopenny; 
and for this the publican had the trouble to go to three casks, and 
turn three taps for a i^int of liquor. To avoid this inconvenience 
and waste, a brewer of the name of Harwood conceived the idea 
of making a liquor which should partake of the same united 
flavor, ale, beer, and twopenny. He did so, by calling it "entire," 
or "entire butt," meaning that it was drawn from one cask or 
butt ; and as it was a very hearty and nourishing beverage, it 
soon gained favor with the porters and laboring people. 

The brewers, however, conceived the idea that there was a me- 
dium to be found preferable to any of these extremes; which was, 



HOW TO BREW. '6i 



that beer well brewed, from being kex^t its proper time, becoming 
mellow — that is, neither new nor stale — would recommend itself 
to the public. This they ventured to sell at twenty-three shillings 
a bai'rel, that victuallers might retail it at threepence a quart. 
Though it was slow at first in making its way, yet, as it certainly 
was right, in the end the exijeriment succeeded beyond expecta- 
tion. Hence the origin of porter; but as yet it was^ far from the 
perfection in which we have since had it; and for many years it 
was an established maxim in the trade, that porter could not be 
made fine or bright, and four or five months were deemed the age 
when it should be drunk. The improvement of brightness has, 
however, since been added, by means of more age, better malt, 
better hops, and the use of isinglass. 

This London beer or porter is the veritable brown stout ; and 
such has been the general prevailing taste for, and appreciation of, 
this poi'ter, that it may now be obtained in almost every nation in 
the four quarters of the globe. Bitter pale ales are in great re- 
quest in the East and West Indies, and now form an inportant 
article of export from England. 

The difi'ereuce between the color of ales and porter is owing to 
the color of the malt used in brewing them. Ale malt is dried at 
a low heat, and consequently is of a pale color; whilst porter malt 
is dried with a'high temperature, and therefore acquires a brown 
color in proportion to the heat used. This incipient charring de- 
velops a peculiar and agreeable bitter taste, which is communica- 
ted to the beer along with, the dark color. 

Good and unadulterated ale or beer is a most healthy and nutri- 
tious beverage. To be good, the fermentation should be so con- 
ducted as to retain the greatest possible poi-tion of gluten or nutri- 
tive matter. The strength of the beer, or the alcohol it may con- 
tain, is but a secondary consideration. 

To secure the greatest portion of nutriment possible in beer, it 
is necessary that the fermentation should be checked as soon as it 
has sufficiently fermented to make it palatable for drinking. If 
the fermentation be permitted to proceed to its greatest length, as 
is the case in distilleries, it would then be but little heavier than 
water, containing little or no nutritious matter, and much alcohol, 
which is not required in good beer, but only sufficient to give it 
briskness and pungency. The properties remaining in it not 
changed will give fulness to the beer, and leave sufficient for it to 
ripen on without becoming sour. 

Having considered what the qualities of good beer should be, 
we will now proceed with the method of 

BREWING. 

The art of brewing is simple, and easily understood, cleanliness 
and attention being the principal points to be considered. It 
consists of five operations, namely, mashing, boiling, cooling, 
fermenting, and cleansing. 

The first process is simple to obtain an infusion of the malt. In 
the second, this infusion of malt is further impregnated with the 
flavor of the hops in the boiling, which is requisite for the pre- 



33 HOW TO BREW. 



servation of the beer. In the third, this decoction or infusion is 
cooled down to the necessary heat for fermentation, which is ex- 
cited with yeast, and which fills it with carbonic gas, giving to the 
liquor that pungent taste for which it is esteemed. After this it 
is fined, or cleansed, to render it fit for drinking. 



THE BREWI lY. 

Any shed or place will do for a brewhouse, provided it is well 
covered in, and sufficiently high and expansive to admit or exclude 
the air just as the heat of the atmosphere requires. The bottom 
should be paved with stone or brick, to admit of its being well- 
cleansed. The brewhouse should be as distant as possible from 
drains or places emitting putrid smells. 

BREWING UTENSILS. 

These utensils in a small way (say for a hogshead, or 54 gallons 
of beer) will consist of a copper capable of containing about 
seventy gallons ; and if the brick edge at the top is made sloping, 
and covered with lead, it will prevent any waste of the wort in 
the boiling. 

A mash tub, with a false bottom about three inches above the 
other bottom, boi-ed full of small holes, to prevent the malt stop- 
ping up the hole of the faucet. In manj^ cases, for the sake of 
economy, an old worn-out birch-broom is cleaned and fastened be- 
fore the* hole of the faucet; and others .again have two pieces of 
M-ood nailed together, and bored full of holes, which is fitted to 
the side of the tub, so as to cover the hole of the faucet. Any of 
these contrivances is to prevent the malt or grains from flowing 
out with the wort, which would spoil its transparency. The tub 
nuist be sufficiently large to hold ten or twelve bushels of malt, 
with plenty of room for mashing or stirring. 

Ayi underback, to receive the wort from the mashing-tub. 

An oar, or rudder; to stir up the malt in the mash-tub. 

Two or three coolers. These should be broad and flat, that the 
wort may cool quickly; for if the wort is too long cooling, it is 
likely to become sour in the coolers. These should also be raised a 
little at one end, that the wort may be run off' at the lowest end 
without being disturbed or shaken— that the sediment which 
always falls down may not be again mixed with the wort. 

A fennentiyig tun. The mash-tub, when emptied of the grains, 
will also serve for this purpose. 

Casks, and oak stands, for the casks and tubs to be placed on. 
The wliole of these articles should be of a suitable size with the 
copper, which the cooper will always regulate, or in proportion 
to the quantity intended to be brewed; but there are few fam- 
ilies who brew less than a hogshead of beer at a time. There are 
other minor articles required, which are enumerated under the 
head of 2'ools requisite for the Cellar. 

PREPARATION FOR BREWING. 

The day before the operation of brewing commences, all the 



HOW TO BREW. 33 



utensils, such as the casks, mash-tub, fermenting tun, coolers — in 
fact, everj'thing which will be required, must be thoroughly- 
cleansed. For this purpose the copper should be filled with water, 
tlie fire liglited, and the water boiled. If due care has been taken 
to put the things away in a clean state after being used, they will 
only require to 3 well scrubbed and scalded, wlien they will be 
perfectly sweet and fit for use. Should they have been suffered 
by neglect to become mouldy on the inside, be particularly care- 
ful not to use them till they have been cleaned and scraped by a 
cooper, who will unhead the casks for this purpose. New casls;; 
should be washed thoroughly with cold water, and a pint of hot 
brine water should be afterwards thrown into the cask (about 
three-quarters of a pound of salt being sufficient for a barrel, or 
thirty-six gallon cask); then bung it up and sliake it well on all 
sides. Empty the cask and allow it to cool, having ready about a 
quart of fennenting wort, Avhich should be afterwards poured 
into the cask; then bung it, shake it, and allow it to stand until 
the wort is cold. 

For casks, tubs, or coolers that arc sour, put some water in 
them, and throw a knob or two of unslacked lime into each; bung 
the casks tight, and let them soak some time, turning them about 
frequently. The tubs or coolers should have the lime and \i'ater 
well stirred about in them. Turn this out, scald and scrub them 
with hot water until perfectly clean. Some siuall pebbles put 
into the casks will very much accelerate the cleansing of them. 

In scalding and cleansing casks the bung should be taken out 
occasionally, whilst rolling or agitating the hot water in them, to 
let the vapor escape. 

These operations being finished, the copper must be cleansed, 
and filled with water for the next day's brewing. 



According to the quality of the barley from which it is made, 
so the malt varies in quality. Tliere are four soi'ts of malt; 
namely, pale, amber, brown, and blown; the last two are used 
for brewing porter. The color depends on the length of time, 
and the degree of heat, used in the drying of it. Pale and amber 
malt are the best for domestic bi'ewing, as they contain the 
largest amount of saccharine matter. The best is the cheapest, 
although it may cost a little more money. The average quantity 
required for a hogshead is about four anVl a half busliels. 

Malt is chosen by its sweet smell, mellow tMste, round body, and 
thin skin. When goo(|, a bushel should weigh about 45 lbs. ; the 
grains should be fine, bite soft between the teeth, and be full of 
flom-. Bad malt will bite hard and steely, and will also sink in 
water the same as barley \\ Inch .is not malted ; whereas, baidey 
which is well nialte<l will swiui after it is wetted all over; and if 
the malt is made from bad barley it will be deficient in weight. 
Malsters are frequently in the habit of mixing a portion of. raw 
barley with malt made from inferior barley, to make up the defi- 
ciency in weight. 

It is always best to have the malt from the malster's and griuvl 



S4 HOW TO BREW. 



it at home, as it measures more after being ground than it did in 
the grain. Before grinding, see that the mill is free from dust and 
cobwebs, and set so as to crush the grain without grinding it to 
powder ; for it is better to have some small grains pass through 
untouched than to have the whole ground too small, which would 
cause it to cake together in the mash, and prevent the extraction 
of the goodness. 

The malt should also be ground or crushed for four or five days, 
or a week, before it is wanted, which will give it time to mellow, 
whereby it will render its properties more freely to the water. 



There is a great variety of hops gi'own, and each of them pro- 
duces a different flavor in the beer, which is more distinguishable 
when new than after it has acquired age. 

In the western part of England, the Farnham hops are preferred 
by those who brew their own beer; in the eastei'n parts, the Kent 
and Sussex hops are preferred; and the Sussex, mixed with the 
Worcester, are used by the inhabitants of the north-western parts 
of England for their keeping-beer, and also for ale. 

Good hops should be of a color between green and yellow, have 
a clammy feel when rubbed between the hands, with plenty of 
yellow flour or farina about them. The seeds should not be too 
large or hard, and the hops should smell lively and agreeable. 



Particular attention must be paid to the quality of the water 
used for brewing. That water which will make a good lather 
with soap, and is the best for washing, should be chosen. River 
or pond water, where there is a running stream having a gravelly 
bottom, is the best, unless polluted by the inelting of snow, or by 
water from clay or ploughed lands. Snow and hard water will 
require a greater proportion of malt than soft water, and conse- 
quently is not so good for brewing. 

Well or spring water, which decomposes or curdles soap, is not 
so good for brewing as soft water; but there is a great difference 
in these waters, some being harder than others. If there is no 
alternative but that of using spring, or hard water, let it be 
pumped up, exposed to the sun in tubs or coolers for several days 
before it is required for use, and a little powdered chalk thrown 
in, stirring it frequentl5^ 

Rain water should be chosen next to river water. The softer 
the water, the greater solvent it is of vegetable matter, thereby 
dissolving more readily and copiously the exti'active matter of 
the malt. 

MASHING. 

The purpose of mashing is to convert as much of the flour of ' 
the malt as possible into sugar, so that the extract drawn from it 
may contain the greatest amount of saccharine matter which it is 
capable of giving. To accomplish this perfectly will depend upon 



HOW TO BREW, 35 



many contingencies — the heat of the water used in mashing, its 
quality, whether hard or soft, the most perfect mixing of the 
malt with the water, and the time of their remaining together. 
High-dried malt does not produce so much saccharine matter as 
pale malt. 

On the proper temperature of the liquor used will depend the 
goodness, flavor, and clearness of the extract drawn. When too 
high, or near the boiling point, the flour of the niplt will be set, 
forming a kind of paste or starch, and the extract obtained will 
be little better than water. Ttie surface of the grains after the 
mashing process is concluded .A'ill be covered with specks of white 
mealo The same appeai-ance also shows*itself when unnialted corn 
has been mixed with the malt. 

If the temperature be too \o\\% the wort will be poor and devoid 
of strength, because the heat of the water is not suflicient to con- 
vert the flour of the malt into sugar, or to extract the saccharine 
matter from it. 

For pale malt the heat of the water must be higher than for 
brown, and so much the lower in proportion as the malt is more 
brown. Thus, for tlie pale malt, the heat of the water for the 
first mash should be 178 degrees; for the second, 183. Pale and 
amber mixed, or pale malt apjiroaching to amber, 172 degrees for 
the first mash; second, 178. All amber, the first 170 degrees* 
second, 17(3. For very broxvn, or brown malt, such as is used for 
porter, 154r degrees for the first ; second, 164. When hard water 
is used, the heat in each case si i on Id be about two degrees less. 
An equal portion of pale, amber and biown, or half pale and half 
brown — first heat, 160 degrees; second, 166. 

The time for the standing of the mash is from an hour and a 
half to two hours. In the summer months the mash should not 
stand so long by a quarter of an hour as it does in the winter. 

Heat the water in the copper to the required degree by Fahren- 
heit's thermometer, an indispensable instrument in the process of 
brewing; but in taking the heat in the copper, if it is too hot, add 
cold liquor to bring it to the desired degree ; but be careful to stir 
the hot and cold well together and mix it intimately, because the 
cold water, being heavier than the hot, sinks to the bottom. 

The heat of the water being now reduced to the proper degree 
in the tun, the malt must be stirred in graduall)'-. It is best for 
one person to throw it in, whilst another mixes it well and 
thoroughly by means of the oa7\ so that there may be no lumps or 
clots of malt left in it. The remainder of the water should be 
added by degrees, as the mash becomes too stiff to stir, until the 
whole is used. Reserve about half a bushel of the malt to throw 
over the top when the mashing is finished. Cover the top of the 
tun with malt-sacks or cloths, to keep in the heat, and let it stand 
the required time. 

Turn the tap partially, to allow the wort to run out slowly, and 
draw off some in a pail or bucket. As the first running will not be 
clear, it must be put gently back into the tun; and if the second 
running is not sufficiently clear, turn the tap again, and let it re- 
main a few minutes before drawing it off; then turn the tap par- 
tially as before, and draw it off into tlie xinderhack, which must 



86 HOW TO BREW. 



be placed underneatli to receive it. As the wort runs out more 
slowly, the tap must be turned more fully, until the whole is 
nearly run out, and the bed of the grains looks dry ; then turn the 
tap to prevent any more running off. 

While the mash is standing, the copper should be again filled 
with water, and heated to the required degree for the second 
mash; this should be ready by the time the first wort is drawn off; 
tlien with a bowl, or lade pail, pour over the top of the grains as 
gently as possible about half as much water as for the first: cover 
the mash-tun, let it remain about teh minutes or a quarter of an 
hour, and draw it off as before, pouring back the first running 
until it is fine. 

The wort from the first mashing is always the best and richest 
in saccharine or sweet matter. The proportion of wort to be ob- 
tained from each bushel of malt depends entirely on the proposed 
strength of the liquor required. To ale or beer of a superior kind 
the produce only of the first mashing should be used. For ordi- 
nary or usual drinking ale, ta'ke the produce of the first and second 
mashings, mix it well, and ascertain the gravity by a saccharome- 
ter — a very useful instrument, which can be obtained, with a 
table for ascertaining the true gravity at different degrees of heat. 
The usual limits for ale or beer is from 50 to GO degrees, and for 
very strong ale from 90 to 120 pounds per ban-el. That made at 
the first gravit}^ will be a brisk, lively, and spai'kling drink; but 
the last will be more heavy and glutinous, and can only be imper- 
fectly fermented. 

BOILING, COOLING, AND FERMENTING, 

As soon as the water is taken from the copper for the table- 
beer, damp the fire with ashes or cinders, and put in the wort. 
For every bushel of malt used, allow one pound of hops, previous- 
ly soaked in water taken from the first mash at 160 degrees of 
heat : add one-half of them at first, and the other half after the 
wort has boiled half an hour. Two pounds of hops by this method 
are considered to be equal to three j^ounds used in the ordinary 
way. The water in which they are steeped is strained off and put 
into the tun instead of the copper, which preserves the flavor of 
the hops. Leb the wort boil as briskly as possible, for the quicker 
it is boiled the sooner it will break. Try it occasionally in a glass 
and see if it has separated into large flakes; if it has not, boil it a 
little longer; when nearly ready, it will appear to be broken into 
fine particles. The extremes of under and over-boiling must be 
avoided, for when ovei'-boiled it is with difficult}^ fined again in 
the casks. When the wort is ready, damp the fire, and draw it off 
into the coolers, keeping the hops well stirred to prevent their be- 
ing burnt to the bottom ; strain it through a hair-sieve to take off 
the hops. The coolers should be as shallow as possible, that the 
wort may not be too long in cooling, or it may chance to get sour, 
and should be of the same depth in each, that it may cool equally. 
When the first wort is drawn off, return the hops again into the 
boiler, with the wort for the table-beer, and let it boil quickly for 
one hour and a half; and if one pound of coarse sugar or molasses 



HOW TO BREW. 37 



and one ounce of salt, be added to every ten gallons of wort in the 
boiling, it will be much improved. When the wort has been 
cooled down to 75 or 80 degrees of heat by the thermometer (this 
will depend on the state of the atmosphere, for when the weather 
is warm it should be cooler), draw it off into the fermenting tun, 
without disturbing the sediment at tlie bottom, which gives the 
ale or beer a disagreeable taste. This is always observed by the 
Scotch brewers, but others consider that it feeds the beer (and al- 
ways use it), which it cei'tainlydqes: for wliether it is the oleagi- 
nous quality of the hops, or the gluten extracted from the malt, 
which is precipitated by the boiling, it cannot be of any injury to 
the wort. If it is the first, it is of essential service to give the full 
flavor of the hops. In each case it will be thrown off in the work- 
ing. 

Three pints of good white fresh yeast will be about the quantity 
required to work a hogshead of beer; but in larger brewings this 
will depend on the quantity there is in a body, the gravit\% and 
heat of the atmosi^here — thus, the lower the gravity, the greater 
the bulk, and the warmer the weather, the less yeast must be used 
in iDroportion to work it, and vice versa. Three pints being suflicient 
for a hogshead, a gallon will work four or five hogsheads in a 
body of the same gravity. First mix the yeast with a gallon or two 
of the wort, and a handful or two of bean or wheat flour in the fer- 
menting tun; when the fermentations is brisk, pour over another 
portion, and as soon as the wort is at the proper degree of temper- 
ature run into the tun, reserving out some of the ferment, to feed 
the beer as occasion xnay require. When it becomes languid, or 
if there is sufficient yeast in, it may then be left out altogether. 

The fermentation should be gradual at first; for if it goes on too 
quickly the beer is likely to become foxed— that is to have a rank 
and disagreeable taste. The next morning, the beer should have a 
thin white creamy head ; then with a bowl or lade-pail, well rouse 
and mix it together. If, however, the fermentation has not been 
favorable, add some of tiie ferment; and if rather cold, wrap some 
sacks or old carpet round the tun, and place some sacks over the 
top; also keep the door and windows closed. Or take a clean cask 
(the size according to the quantity of the gvle, or brewing), and 
fill it full of boiling liquor; bung it close, and put in the tun. In 
the evening rouse the head well in again; the next morning the 
beer should have what is termed a cauliflower- head ; remove with 
the skimmer any patches of dark-brown yeast, and mix it well 
up togetlier again. After the yeast has risen to the top, it will 
form a thick yeasty appearance, which should be skimmed off as 
soon as it is inclined to fall. A portion should then be taken out, 
tried with the saccharometer, and noted. If not sufficiently fer- 
mented, it should be tried every two hours until it is so, and the 
head may be skimmed off at the same time. When sufficiently re- 
duced, cleanse it into the casks. 

In cleansing ale or beer, the yeast should be skimmed from the 
top, and the liquor drawn off gently, so as not to disturb the bot- 
toms. The casks should be plugged a little on one side, that the 
yeast may work and discharge itself at the bung-hole. A tub or 
pan must be placed underneath to reueive the yeast ^s it v/orks 



HOW TO BREW. 



over. The greatest attention should be paid to the filling up of 
the casks with the wort that is left, which should be done every 
half hour at first, as the working becomes more slow, every three 
or four hours, that the yeast may continue to discharge itself, 
otherwise it will fall to the bottom, and render the beer harsh 
and unpleasant, and liable to be excited on every change of the 
weather; but by attending to these precautions, this will be 
avoided, and the working of the beer will be sooner over. 

When the yeast has ceased to discharge itself, plug the casks up- 
right, mix a pound of the best hops with old ale or beer, and scald 
them in it over the fire. If the ale or beer is required to be drunk 
soon, this mixture should be added warm, otlierwise, add it when 
cold. Mix it well into the cask by means of ii long stick, and bung 
the cask close ; make a si^ile-hole near the bung, and piit in a spile 
rather loosely at first, and after two or three days knock it in 
firmly. 

Small beer will require rather more yeast to work it than strong 
beer or ale. A portion of the wort at the temperature of 85 de- 
grees should be mixed at first with the j^east. When the fomen- 
tation has commenced, the rest of the wort may be run into the 
tun at the heat of 75 degrees. It will not work so strongly as ale, 
and may be casked the next day. Attend to the filling of the cask 
as directed for ale. Tn about two days the fermentation will have 
subsided, and the cask should then be bunged close. 

The fermentation will always show whether the degrees of heat 
have been well taken, and the extract well made. If too high, 
the air-bladders on the head will be about as large as a crown 
piece. If too low, there will be few or no bladders, or very small 
ones; but when well taken they will be in size between a quarter 
of a dollar and a ten-cent piece. 

The proportions of hops used for beer should be in accordance 
with the time it is to be kept. If for immediate use, three pounds 
will be sufficient for a coomb of malt. From one to two years, 
four pounds; old beer, five or six pounds. The same if the wort 
is vei-y rich ; or in proportion to its gi'avity use more hops, be- 
cause beer or ale made from rich wort is always intended for 
long keeping. 

In general, four or five pounds of hops per coomb are used for 
ales; but for porter, five to six pounds, and for bitter ale, about 
eight or ten pounds; but in all cases care should be taken that the 
hops are of the best quality. Brewers are not permitted to use 
any other bitter than hops for their ale; but the private brewer 
will find about a quarter of a pound of the raspings of quassia 
equivalent to six pounds of hops for preserving ale and imi^arting 
a pleasant bitter. 

Beer brewed for immediate use maybe made from all pale malt, 
as it is more readily fermented than that from the brow^ner sorts. 
It will not keep so well, and may be brewed almost in the hottest 
weather, as it need not be cooled below 70 or 75 degrees. 

A mixture of pale and amber malt should always be used for 
keeping-beer, and the wort cooled down to 60 or 70 degrees before 
it is put into a state of fermentation; hence, from Autumn to 
Spring, or the months of October and March, have ever been 



ttOW TO BREW. m 



deemed the most favorable months for brewing the best malt 
liquor, the latter being considered the most fitted, as the beer has 
so many cold months immediately succeeding for it to ripen and 
grow fine in; besides it does not want such watching and tending 
as the March beer does, in putting in and taking out the spile or 
peg on every change of the \^•eather, 

When river water is used for brewing, the month of October is 
anything but preferable, as the water is then filled with decayed 
and putrid vegetation ; neither cati the quality of the malt be well 
depended on at this season. Malt liquor may be brewed in any 
month but June, July and August. 

The proportion of wort to be obtained from every bushel of 
malt will depend entirely on the proposed strength of the liquor 
required. For ale or beer of a superior kind the produce of the 
first mashing only should be lised; but if the ordinary or usual 
drinking ale is wanted, take the produce of the first and second 
mashings, and use the third for table beer. 

CLEANSING AND FLAVORING BEER. 

There are several simple and innoxious articles which can be 
used for this purpose by the private brewer — namely, Spanish 
juice, licorice root, cardamon and caraway seeds, and dried 
orange peel powdered ; these are very excellent when used judi- 
ciously ; but the public brewer is prohibited by law from using 
any other articles than malt, hops, and sugar. Honey is also an 
excellent assistant to beer and ale ; about two pounds to a quarter 
of malt being put into the copper just before the \vort is turned 
out, or long enough to melt and incorporate with the mass. The 
same plan should be adopted with everything used for this pur- 
pose — that is, throwing it in when the wort is at the full boiling 
point, for then it will not fall to the bottom without mixing. 
When, however, Spanish juice is used, it will be necessary to tie 
it in a net bag and suspend it. Salt and ground ginger, or salt 
and other spice, are excellent for cleansing beer. 

PORTER BREWING FOR FAMILIES. 

To make this beverage, three sorts of malt are required, name- 
ly, pale, brown, and blown malt. The peculiar flavor of this liquor 
is given by the brown and blown malt, and no other material or in- 
gredient whatever is required different from other sorts of beer. 
The mixture of malt mav be composed of half pale or amber, 
and half brown malt; or, take for a hogshead, four bushels ot pale 
or amber malt, two of brown, and fourteen pounds of patent 
blown malt, and six pounds of the best brown hops. These pro- 
portions will make excellent porter, but the following may be 
used for a second-rate qualitv:— Two bushels and a half of amber, 
a bushel and a half of brown malt, and four pounds of hops, with 
sufficient burnt sugar to give the desired color; or it maybe 
brewed with all amber malt, using blown malt, or sugar coloring, 
instead of the brown malt. , j 

Tfee water for mashing must be lower than for beer or ale, and 



40 How TO BR^W. 

be reduced to 164 or 166 degrees for the first mash, according to 
the instructions already laid down. All the processes are con 
ducted the same as for beer or ale, with this exception, that 
blown malt is boiled with the wort in a copper, and the second 
malt, if boiled separate, should be boiled violently foi* two or 
three hours ; and as there is generally but one quality of porter, 
the two kinds of wort ai"e run together into the tun. 

Twenty-eight gallons of cold water may be run into the tun for 
table porter, which should be managed as table beer. If the color 
is not sufficiently higii it may be heightened by using a pouiid of , 
Spanish juice with the wort in the boiler, or by the addition of j 
burnt sugar. i 

TO CALCULATE THE GRAVITY OF MIXED WORT. 

When two or more sorts of wort are to be mixed together, their 
mean gravity must be taken, which is done thus: 

Multiply the quantity of each wort by its respective grav'ty; 
add the product together, and divide by the number of gallons. 
The result will be their gravity when mixed together. Thus: 

Suppose we have two worts, the gravitj^ of the first wort 60, and 
the dip to show 60 gallons ; the second wort at the gravity of 30, 
and containing 48 gallons, we should thus arrive at the gravity : 
60 48 60 108)5040(46 72-108 

48 30 60 433 



108 1440 3600 720 
gallons in 1440 648 
the whole. 



5040 72 

Showing the gravity of the two, when mixed together, to be 
46 72-108, or it may be called 46 and a half. 

To ascertain the gravity at per barrel. — Multiply the number of 
barrels by the pounds per barrel for the first and second worts, as 
in the last example, and divide by the number of barrels in the 
whole. The product will be the gravity per barrel. The follow- 
ing is a simple illustration: 

Suppose the first wort to be 10 barrels, at 14 pounds per barrel ; 
the second wort 8 barrels, at 5 pounds per barrel ; what is their 
gravity? 

10 X 14 =. 140 I 

8x5 40 

18 18)180(10 per barrel. 

The Excise, when taking the dip of hot wort in the coolers, al- 
ways allow 10 per cent, for evaporation and condensation ; and if 
the same allowance is made when taking hot wort in the copper, 
the raw and boiled gravities would very nearly correspond. Af- 
ter deducting 10 per cent, from the first wort, an allowance of 
the gravity of one barrel should be added to the second for every 
sixty pounds of hops used in the first boiling, which will be carried 
over to the second wort. This will be near about the quantity of 
wort they will retain. 



HOW TO BREW. 4i 



FERMENTATION. 

r The fermentation of beer or ale is a very important part in the 
process of brewing. The quantity of extract obtained from the 
malt depends greatly upon the heat of the water used for mash- 
ing, and on the mashing process being properly conducted; but 
whether that extract be rich or poor, the flavor of the beer or ale, 
and its ultimate success in the cellar, depends ui:)on the wort being 
properly and sufficiently fermented in the tun and casks. 

Fermentation increases the heat, and decreases the gravity of 
the wort, altering altogether its original character by a decom- 
position of its parts, or a conversion of its saccharine principle 
into alcohol, which gives to it that vinous pungency for which it 
is esteemed. If the fermentation is not carried far enough, the 
abundant sweet principle of the wort will not be sufficiently 
changed to give it the necessary vinous taste, and it will be sickly 
and cloying, deficient of strength, and liable to become ropy. 
When the fermentation is carried too far in the tun, the vinous 
flavor is partly lost; and if still lower, the yeast becomes, as it 
were, fixed in it, from the ale or beer having lost its natural 
energy to throw it off, and it will have a flat, stale, and disagreea- 
ble taste. Fretting then ensues in the cask, and from being defi- 
cient of body it soon becomes sour, unless speedily drunk. 

All beer for keeping should be fermented in the tun to about 
one-fourth its original gravity, in a temperature of the gyle not 
exceeding 70 degrees. Lighter beer about one-third; but in no 
case should it be allowed to reach so far as one-half. In winter, 
the fermentation of weak beer must not be carried quite so far as 
in the summer, as more unfermented matter must be left to 
noui'ish it in the cask during the cold weather, which will coun- 
teract its ripening. Some allowance should also be made for the 
time the ale or beer is intended to be kept. 

Strong wort will bear a greater proportionate fermentation than 
weak wort, and consequently be stronger and more sparkling. 
Beer of this kind, intended to be kept, should be fermented so low 
as to insure transparency and softness, with a proper degree of 
strength, for it will have time to bring itself round. Still, care 
must be taken to leave a sufficient quantity of unfermented matter 
for the supply of the gradual decomposition, the quantity left 
being proportionate to the time the beer is intended to be kept. 
Wort of 50 or 60 degrees gravity will keep well for two or three 
years, if reduced to tvvo-fifths, or at least one-fourth. Ale is not 
fermented so much as beer, therefore a considerable portion of the 
saccharine matter still remains in the liquid, apparently unaltered. 

In conducting this process, both the thermometer and saccharo- 
meter must be the guide; the last is indispensable. The results 
given by these' should be carefully noted in a book kept for tlie 
purpose, with the heat of the atmosphere at the time the observa- 
tions are made, which will eerve as a guide for any future brew^ 
ing. 

As soon as the head forms a brown, thick, yeasty appearance, 
HHfl \n ImlivM to ^a||, it ji^^ipt; l^e immeaia4iely s}f4ir}ij;e4 pfj, P^r. 



43 HOW TO BREW. 



ticular attention must be paid to this poirtt. It is at all times 
better to skim it before it begins to drop, than allow it to pass 
again through the beer, which w ill give it a rank, disagreeable 
taste, termed "yeast bitten;" neither will it fine well in the cask. 
After the head is skimmed off, a portion should then be taken 
out, tried by the saccharometer, and noted ; and if it is not suffi- 
ciently fermented it should be roused well up, and skimmed 
every two hour until the required gravity is nearly attained, 
when it sVould be watclied with the greatest attention, and cleans- 
ed with a little salt and beau-flour, and any other flavoring in- 
gredient may then be added, such as ground ginger, cardamon, 
caraway seeds, &c., and well mixed with it immediately it is re- 
du'^ed to the desired point. 

The Acetous Fermentation may arise from premature fermen- 
tation, through the mashing heat being take too low, when it 
may commence in the tun, underback, or coolers. If in the mash 
tun, the wort will ferment very rapidly, and produce a large 
quantity of yeast ; but of course the liquor will be sour, there- 
fore less yeast will be requii'ed to ferment it. 

When the first mash is affected, all the subsequent ones will 
share the same fate, and no exti-a quantity of hops or boiling 
that may be given to it will restore it to a sound condition. 

It may also arise from the mashing heat being taken too high. 
When this is the case, the fermentation is languid, the yeast head is 
very low, and appears brown or fiery, accompanied with a hiss- 
ing noise, and occasionally it will appear as if boiling. A larger 
quantity of yeast than usual is necessary to be added to wort of 
this description, to force the fermentation, and to discharge the 
yeast freely, in order that as little as possible may remain in the 
liquor, which would otherwise fret and become sour. 

The acetous fermentation may also arise from premature fer- 
mentation, either in the underback or coolers: hence, fretting en- 
sues, and the liquor continually generates acidity. 

Acidity in beer may be neutralized by chalk, lime, alkalies, &c., 
but it cannot be totally destroyed without spoiling the liquor. 

THE BEER CELLAR. 

When oeer is di'awn off into the casks, the next considera- 
tion is the cellarage. 

At some places, it is usual to store the beer in a kind of shed 
or outhouse. In this case a northerly direction should be 
chosen, as much sheltered as possible, and free from any currents of 
air; for if these were to be admitted, or have access through the 
cellar, they would cause many alterations in the liquor, and 
keep it in so unsettled a state as to render it unfit for drinking. 
A cellar vmderground is almost indispensable for the well keep- 
ing of beer. The average heat should be about 50 degrees — at 
no time should it exceed 54 or 55, even in winter, and in sum- 
mer the cellai' cannot be kept too cool and clean. 

During the summer months empty the tap-tubs daily into a 
cask which should be kept for the purpose of containing slops and 
gTQundSf Biit if the taps are in good repair, and JQ\\ ^.rg parejt'iij 



HOW TO BREW. 43 



in drawing the beer, there will be little or no slops to empty. The 
beer brewed in the spring should be frequently examined, as the 
heat may produce a second fermentation, when the spile should 
be loosened to give the gas vent, or it will endanger the bursting 
of the casks, or produce a leakage by opening the staves. Wash 
the floor and stairs of the cellar (if paved with stones) weekly, and 
in winter sweep them clean every ten or twelve days at the ut- 
most. By attention to these duties the cellar will smell sweet on 
being opened, and the beer keep cool and fine during the summer 
months; but if these things are neglected it is liable to become 
sour. 

Order, as well as cleanliness, is essentially requisite in the cellar 
business. A good cellarman will pride himself on the good order- 
ing and conducting of the cellar. To accomplish this, a cup- 
board and rack sliould be fixed in a dry situation to keep the tools 
in, and when the work is finished in the cellar they should be looked 
up before leaving, and put in the cupboard and rack, when they 
can readily be found in case of any emergency. 

The tools requisite for the beer cellar or brew-house, are three 
or four iron-bound tap- tubs; one or two M^ood funnels; a pair of 
strong folding steps; some taps; some spigots and faucets; a ham- 
mer or adze, and a hoop driver; six tin spouts, with the top broad 
and flat like a baker's shovel, for the beer to work through when 
in the casks ; a large tub and a skimmer, with whisk for the yeast ; 
a stamped bushel measure, to measure the malt ; a pair of scales, 
Mith stamped lead or iron- weights (these should be kept dry), for 
the hops, or a pair of steelyards ; an iron or copper bowl ; lade 
pails, hair sieves, buckets or pails, a few bulrushes, and a chinker 
to stop any leaks that may happen in the groving or chinks of the 
casks. 

Although every attention may have been paid to the brewing, 
and the beer obtained be satisfactory, yet, if it is not properly 
stored, all the labor and care which have been bestowed upon it 
will be lost. 

The casks for beer should be perfectly clean, sweet, and dry. 
New casks should be well seasoned and prepared according to the 
instructions already given, or they will impart to the beer a bad 
and flat taste. Old casks that have been any length of time out 
of use, are liable to become musty; therefore particular attention 
should be paid them before they are used. 

Malt liquors, from bad cellars, and a variety of other causes, 
often ferment in the casks and grow thick, or are otherwise in- 
jured; therefore at different periods watch their progress by 
drawing a little in a glass from a spile-hole in front. 

When the deterioration is caused by the changes of the weather 
or a bad cellar, the beer or ale will often fine and mellow of itself. 
Should it remain still out of order, put it again into a new state 
of fermentation. For this purpose mix bean or wheat flour into 
a paste with treacle, and if it also proves hard or tart, add to 
these some calcined oyster-shells pulverized, or a little salt of tar^ 
tar. Two or three of these balls, as large as the bunghole will 
admit, being put into each hogshead, and well stirred jip lu it; Will 
promote its briskness and correct the aciditj, - ^ • ■ 



44 HOW TO BREW. 



All beer or ale that has any sort of alkali added to destroy the 
acidity should be drunk as speedily as possible, or it will soon 
become vapid ; therefore it is best only to add the treacle and 
flour without the alkali, and put a little salt of tartar into the can 
or pitcher as it is drawn, which will answer the purpose equally 
well. 

The fermentation of beer may be checked by opening the bung- 
hole for two or three days. If it does not stop", add some powder- 
ed marble or gypsum; or two or three pounds of oyster-shells 
should be washed, well dried in an oven, and pulverized; or add 
a little oxymuriate of potass, or sulphate of potass. Mix any one 
of these preparations into tlie beer with the forcing rod, and as 
soon as the fermentation has subsided i*ack it off into clean casks, 
and suspend in it a bag of wheat which has been boiled in some 
water until it has burst, with a pint of the water it was boiled in. 

Wheat malt, or high dried malt ground, is preferred by many 
for this purpose, using about two oi- three qriarts to a hogshead ; 
or it may again be rendered brisk and jDleasant by boiling about 
three pounds of honey in as many gallons of the beer until it is 
thoroughly dissolved. When cold, mix it with the rest in the 
cask, and bung close. The stands on which the casks rest, if not 
perfect, firm, and steady, will re-excite the fermentation by dis- 
turbing the bottoms, from the rocking motion, if it should chance 
to be touched. 

To keep strong beer in a proper state of preservation, when 
once the vessel is broached, regard must be paid to the time in 
which it may be drunk. If there is a quick draught, the beer 
vill continue good to the bottom ; if a slow draught, then, when 
-fc is rather more than half drawn off, bottle the remainder, or to- 
wards the last it will be flat and finally sour. 

In proportion to the quantity of liquoi' contained in one cask, 
so will it be a shorter or longer time in ripening. A vessel 
which contains two hogsheads of beer will require twice as much 
ime to ripen as one containing a hogshead. It is considered that 
no vessel should be used for strong beer that is intended to be kept 
of a less size than a hogshead, as one containing that quantity, if 
': is fit to draw in a year, will have body enough to support it 
a'om two to four years; provided it has a sufficient strength of 
malt and hops ; but it has been found by experience to keep well 
ui quarter casks, which is a size very eonvenieiit for small fam- 
-lies, as the contents can be drank within a reasonable time. 

With respect to the management of small beer, the first con- 
ideration should be to make it tolerably good in quality, which 
..ill be found more economical. It is advisable, therefore, where 
■"here is a good cellar, to brew a stock of good table ale in March 
; r October, or in both months, to be kept if possible in whole or 
* alf hogsheads. That brewed in March should not be tapped for 
three or four months, or until October, and that brewed in Octo- 
uer not until the March following, having this regard to the 
quantity, that a family of the same number of people will di-ink 
;^it least a third more in summer than in winter ; and fine table 
'dein bottle is much 0ste,empd, miA dvmik by juanyfamiliei? di^v 
^(ig the ^unj.mer j«onti})§. 



MOW TO BREW. 45 



About a week or ten days before any beer or ale is requii-ed to 
be tapped for drinking, two or three casks should be tried, in order 
to select the one of the finest flavor and quality ; and instead o^ 
using the common spile when the cask is tapped, there are vent; 
pegs, to be obtained from ironmongers, which do not allow the ga;; 
to escape out of the cask, whereby the liquor remains good to the 
last. If the beer is not sufficiently fine for drinking, it should bo 
fined with isinglass. Take about two ounces for a hogshead, ar.d 
dissolve it in some stale or sour beer. When it is perfectly dis- 
solved, add some more beer to it, whisking it to a strong frotli, 
and stir it well into the cask with a long stick. In warm weather 
it may be necessary to use a handful of salt, or fine dry sand, to 
increase the gravity and stop the fretting Silver sand is mostly 
used in London for this purpose; but isinglass should never bo 
used for fining without absolute necessity ; it has a tendency to 
flatten and impoverish the beer, by depriving it of the vegetable 
principle called "tannin," which gives it the racy and slightly 
rough taste. 

The scalded hops are put into the beer when the fomentation 
ceases, for the purpose of fining it. 

Instead of using the heading for beer or ale that is commonly 
adopted by victuallers, and which consists of equal portions of 
roach alum and green copperas, take the white of one eg^ to every 
nine gallons, or use about six or seven to the hogshead, and mix 
them into a stiff paste with bean or good wheat flour, and a little 
ginger; rouse it well into the cask with a forcing rod, about thi-ee 
or four days or a week before it is tapped, which will give it a 
good head, and make it mantle in the glass. 

For bottling ale or beer, the same attention should be paid co 
the bottles, the choice of corks, and state of the air. Wet or damp 
bottles cause the liqucn- put into them to turn mouldy or mothery ; 
therefore be particular that they are dry. Fill the bottles up to 
the neck, and let them stand uncorked about twenty -four hours 
to flatten; cork tliem well; tie them down with wire or string, 
and pack them in the bins on their sides, either in sand or saw- 
dust. This last must be jierfectly dry, or it will heat and endanger 
the bursting of the bottles. If some of them are required for im- 
mediate use they may be packed in hay. 

Before bottling any sort of malt liquor, first ascertain whether 
it is in a fit condition. Beer should never be put into bottles until 
the fermentation is extremely slow, \\'hich is seldom the case with 
strong beer under nine or twelve months. Weak or table ale may 
be bottled much sooner. If its state is but slightly saccharine, 
and has but little briskness, it is in a fit state for bottling; but if 
it spouts up with force from the peg-hole, it is a sign that the 
liquor is still too active to be bottled with safety. Bottling 
should generally be done in the springy that the increasing heat 
may bring it up in bottle, which is difficult in winter, unless it is 
packed in a moderately warm place, or in hay, for a few days 
before it is drawn, as the atmosphere affects it very powerfully. 
Beer froii the top to the middle of the hogshead is the best for 
bottling, and will ripen sooner in the bottles than the lower part, 
which is always less clear, and not generally considered so fine iu 



46 HOW TO BREW. 



flavor. When once a cask of any liquor is begun to be drawn off 
for bottling, it should not be left until the whole is bottled off, 
otherwise it will vary in flavor. 

Weak malt liquors ripen much quicker in the bottles, and are 
more violent than the strong, and endanger their bursting in a 
greater degi'ee. Inspect the bins frequently, to ascertain the 
state of the liquor. The bursting of one bottle shows that it is 
full up ; the rest should then be stood on their bottoms. To know 
when it is up, hold the bottle to the light, and if there is a rising 
above the beer, it is then fit to drink. When the remaining i^or- 
tion of a cask of beer that has been on draught is bottled, put a 
piece of loaf sugar, about the size of a walnut, into each when 
they are corked, which will forward the ripening, and improve 
the quality. The same plan should be adopted with bottled table 
ale in summer, which will make it a very pleasant and refreshing 
drink. A few stoned raisins being put into each bottle will also 
have the same effect. 

If on opening any bottled beer it is not sufficiently bi'isk, or has 
become flat from bad casks, age or improper management, the in- 
troduction Of a piece of sugar into each bottle will restore its brisk- 
ness, after the bottles have been well corked, and laid on their 
sides in the bins for some time. 

A very cheap and excellent method to preserve beer in a bottle, 
where there is not the convenience of a cellar, is to sink some 
holes in the ground, and bury in each hole a large oil jar, and 
place the bottles in the jars. Every jar will hold about two 
dozen. Put a cover over each, with earth on the top. 

BREWING RED HOT. 

This mode of brewing is recommended to family use by its 
economy as well as simplicity, the use of instruments being dis- 
pensed with, as well as coolers and working tubs, by its unfailing 
success all through the summer, and even in the hottest weather, 
during a practice of many years; and finally, its expedition, the 
beer being mafle and casked all in one day. Two things, however, 
are indispensable to the process ; the first, that the copper, mash- 
tub, under-back, and casks, should be all as clean as a wine decan- 
ter; and, second, that the cellar brewed in should be of an even 
temperature (say ranging between 45 and CO degi-ees) ; if it ex- 
ceeds 60 degi'ees in summer, it is of no use attempting to brew, as 
the beer will not keep. 

Let us sujjpose (going upon a very small scale) that the brewer 
has three 18-gallon casks ; send one to the best public brewer who 
may live conveniently near, to be filled with good clear beer of mod- 
erate strength. Get from a first-rate malster three bushels of best 
pale malt, ready ground ; and three pounds of the best hops — the 
hops for each bushel of malt may vary from half a pound to two 
pounds. Boil the water, and run it into the mash -tub ; wait ten 
minutes, and put in the malt ; mash it well in the usual way, 
cover it up, and let it remain three hoiu^s ; before you draw it off, 
have, in some vessel near, a copper ful or two of water, nearly 
boiling. Then, when you begin to draw off the first wort, take a 



HOW TO BREW. 



clean watering-pot, dip out the hot water that is handy, and 
water the grains in the mash-tub, Ivecping the mash-tub tap run- 
ning till you have sufficient to fill up the copper, and set it boiling. 
This drains the grains as effectually as three mashes, if well done ; 
the process should be very gradual, taking half an hour at least • 
the copper must then be watched till it beats pure, as the breweirj 
call it — that is, tlie wort breaks in flakes — and then add the hop:;. 
Boil for an hour and a half, rake out the fire, draw from the ca,sk 
of beer one-third, and put it into one of the barrels, and another 
third into the second— you need not be very nice about the exact 
quantity ; thus, each cask will be one-third full. Then very care- 
fully put into the casks the hot liquor, hops and all, stirring it up 
that the hops may be equally divided, and your brewing is done. 
You will, however, have kept back about two gallons in a largo 
pitcher to fill the casks, as the liquor sinks in them from evapora- 
tion, for three weeks or a month ; at the end of that period you 
may tap it. When the first cask is empty, clean it well out; draw 
off three gallons of the second cask, and brew another bushel of 
malt as before ; and so go on brewing a bushel at a time. This 
produces the best beer that can be drunk. 

TO MAKE BEER WITH SUGAR. 

Boil fifty^four gallons of water in a copper; run it into a mash- 
tub, and let it cool to 90 degrees Fahr, Put in four bushels of 
malt; let it stand three houz's, covered with sacks, to keep tho 
steam in ; run into underback, and immediately pump into copper. 
Mix, and stir eight pounds of hops with it. Boil three hours ; run 
it into a trough to cool, mixing twenty-five pounds of sugar with 
the hand in the wort as it rvins along the trough. Cool to 70 de- 
grees, and let down into the working-tub. Make a second wort in 
precisely the same way as the first, with the same malt and hops, 
and twenty-five pounds of sugar ; cool it separately, and mix it 
with first wort in the working-tub. Put one pint of yeast into 
flat-bowl; put bowl into wort, so that wort can just touch yeast. 
Let it work twelve hours, during which time skim off yeast three 
times. Keep it covered, excefjt when being skimmed, and back 
off into casks in cellar. It may work a fortnight. Fill up the 
casks every morning with what has worked out of the cork -hole 
into the tub beneath. Skim it before returning it to cask, clean- 
ing away all the yeast which rises to the top of the cask through the 
bung-hole. Put three or four handfuls of dry hops into casks 
through bung-hole, and bung it up. If very strong beer is re- 
quired, keep the first wort by itself. If the usual strength is suf- 
ficient, four bushels of malt, fifty pounds ot sugar, and, eight 
pounds of hops make one hundred and eight gallons of beer. The 
sugar should be of a strong, grainy quality. 

Another tnethod of mixing Sugar. — Immediately before running 
wort into cooler, take out of copper two pailfuls of wort, and 
empty into small cask. Mix the sugar with it ; pour back into 
copper, mixing thoi'oughly, and directly run it off into cooler. Do 
not boil wort after sugar is added. Very good beer may be made 
by putting seven pounds of raw sugar in the place of a 'bushel ot 



48 HOW TO BREW. 

malt; but the braii should first be boiled in the water in which it 
is dissolved, and strained off, to give that "body" to the liquor 
that the farinaceous portion of the jnalt supplies. After, the hops 
to be boiled in the wort, and fermentation effected, as with malt 
beer. 

TREACLE BEER. 

Take of linseed two ounces; treacle, one pound and a half; cream 
of tartar, one ounce and a quarter; best ginger (bruised), one 
ounce; boiling water, two gallons. Put the ingredients (the trea- 
cle, linseed, cream of tartar, and ginger) into a large pot, and 
pour the boiling water upon them; let them stand till cold, and 
then add six ounces of yeast. Let it stand to ferment for a few 
hours (about seven or eight) ; bottle it in pint bottles, and tie the 
corks down. This is a very refreshing drink in the summer time; 
it is also very agreeable as well as wholesome, and is much used in 
the north of England. 

A very pleasant and cheap beverage may be made also in the 
following manner: — Boil five ounces of hops in nine gallons of 
water one hour; add three pounds and a half of treacle, a little 
yeast, and let it ferment. 

PALE ALE. 

To make a barrel of pale ale equal to any that is brewed, use 
three bushels of malt, or four, if strength is desiz-ed; eight or nine 
pounds of hops, according to the required degrees of bitterness, 
one pound of camomile flowers, strewed in a jar and strained. Put 
the camomile fl(jwers and the hops in at the same time. Boil the 
malt and water till the liquor begins to fine itself; and that is the 
time to add the hops and flowers. 

BEER FROM POTATOES. 

In Silesia they prepare a very wholesome and palatable potato- 
beer, by which every family can supply itself at a trifling expense. 
Twenty-five gallons of such beer are made from half a bushel of 
potatoes, ten pounds of malt, half a pound of hops, and two quarts 
of yeast. 

INSTANTANEOUS BEER. 

Take about a pint and a half of water, four teaspoonfuls of 
ginger, and a tablespoonful of lemon juice — sweeten it to taste 
with syrup or white sugar. Have ready an ordinary glass bottle, 
a cork to fit the bottle, a string to tie it down, and a mallet to 
drive down the cork. Put into the bottle a heaped teaspoonful of 
the supercarbonate of soda, pour in the liquor, corlc immediately, 
tie it down, then shake the whole up well, cut the string and the 
cork will fly out. Turn it out, and drink immediately. 

SPRUCE BEER. 

To make White Spruce Ben\—To ten gallons of water put six 
pounds of sugar and four ounces of essence of spruce ; then add 



HOW TO BREW. 49 



yeast, and work it as in making ginger beer. Bottle immediately 
in half -pint bottles. 

Broimi Spruce Beer.— This beer is made in the same manner as 
the preceding, only treacle is substituted for the sugar. It is an 
exceedingly wholesome summer drink, especially for persons 
afflicted with pains of the kidneys. 

TO CONVERT SOUR BEER INTO VINEGAR. 

First clear the beer with isinglass dissolved in some of the sour 
beer. When perfectly dissolved, it should be beaten up with a 
whisk and some more of the sour lieer, until it forms a froth. It 
should then be poured into the cask, and the contents well stirred 
up with a long stick. About half an ounce of isinglass will be 
sufficient for a firkin. 

TO CORRECT ACIDITY IN BEER OR CIDER, 

. Take one pound of pulverized chalk and put it into a hogshead ; 
in a week the liquor will have become mild and pleasant. 

TO RECOVER ROPY BEER OR CIDER. 

Put half a pound of mustard seed into a hogshead: bung it down 
closely, and it will be fit for use in a week or a fortnight. 

TO MAKE GINGER BEER. 

To every gallon of spring water, put one ounce of the best white 
ginger, sliced one pound of lump sugar, and two ounces of lemon 
juice; boil it about an hour, take off the scum, then run it tlirough 
a hair sieve into a tub; when cooled down to 70 degrees, add yeast 
in the proportion of half a pint to nine gallons ; keep it in a tem- 
perate situation two days, during which time it may be stirred six 
or eight times; then put it into a cask, which must be kept full, 
and the workings taken off at the bung-hole with a spoon. In a 
fortnight, add half a pint of finings (made of pickled isinglass 
steeped in beer) to nine gallons. The cask must be kept full, and 
the scum taken off as it rises at the bung-hole. Twenty-four 
hours after fining, the liquor may be bottled off. In the summer 
time it will be ripe and fit to drink in a fortnight. 

HOW TO BREW A BOWL OF PUNCH. 

Take two large fresh lemons with rough skins, quite ripe, and 
some large lumps of rlouble-refined sugar. Rub the sugar over 
the lemons till it has absorbed all the yellow part of the skins. 
Then put into the bowl these lumps, and as much more as the 
juice of the lemons may be supposed to require; for no certain 
weight can be mentioned, as the aciditv of a lemon cannot bp» 
known till tried, and therefore, this muat b© determined bv the 
taste. Then squeeze the lemon-juiVe apow tha ssugar; and wftli the 
bruiser presH tli«* sugar: and thp! iui.-^i wsll togethar^ for H gi'»-f»f, 

ilc^j Of t'?ifi rinhji^Fin anfi P,r,fi /iQfof Of tjff* pijnoh (1epon'"]?< on this 



60 HOW TO BREW. 



rubbing and mixing process being thoroughly performed. Then 
mix this up with boiling water (soft water is best) till the whole is 
rather cool. When this mixture (which is now called the sherbet) is 
to your taste, take brandy and rum in equal quantities, and put them 
to it, mixing the whole well together again. The quantity of 
liquor must be according to your taste ; two good lemons are gener- 
ally enough to make four quarts of punch, including a quart of 
liquor, with half a pound of sugar ; but this depends much on taste, 
and on the strength of the spirit. As the pulp is disagreeable to some 
persons, the sherbet may be strained before the liquor is put in. 
Some strain the lemon before they put it to the sugar, which is 
improper, as when the pulp and sugar are well mixed together it 
adds much to the richness of the punch. When only rum is used, 
about half a pint of porter will soften the punch ; and even when 
both rum and brandy are used, the porter gives a richness, and to 
some a very pleasant flavor. 

Another Method. — Have a bowl to hold a gallon. Put into it a 
pound and a. half of loaf sugar; add the lemons, rubbing the rind 
of them with lumps of sugar to extract the oil ; pour in boiling 
water, and taste the mixture; it should be excellent lemonade; 
until this be perfect, it will be useless to add the wine and spirit. 

When the lemonade is the desired strength, sweetness, and flavor, 
mix in it equal quantities of brandy and rum, a smaller proportion 
of rum shrub, with a glass of wiiie. Punch should be mild yet 
strong, tasting of all the ingredients of which it is composed, yet 
no one of them preponderating over the rest. 

An equal mixture of brandy and rum, sugar, the proper propor- 
tion of lemon juice, a glass of port wine, and a little rum shi'ub 
mixed with boiling water, will also make excellent punch. 

MILK PUNCH. 

Pare the rind off twelve lemons and two Seville oranges thinly, 
put them to steep in six pints of rum, brandy, or whisky, (which- 
ever you like to make the punch of), for twentj^-four hours, then 
add two pounds of refined sugar, three pints of water, two nut- 
megs grated, and a pint of lemon-juice ; stir it till the sugar is 
dissolved, then take three pints of new milk, boiling hot, and pour 
on the ingredients; let it stand twelve hours, closely covered; 
strain through a jelly bag till quite clear; bottle it. 

Another Method. — ^Fill a bottle as full as possible of lemon-peel, 
and then add as much brandy as it will admit ; let this (corked) 
stand in the sun two or three days, then mix with the brandy 
(having poured it out) two pounds of sugai', two quarts of Mater, 
four of brandy, two of boiling milk, (boiled with spice), and about 
a pint of lemon-juice. When this is cold, strain it till quite clear, 
and bottle it instantly. 

COLD PUNCH. 

Take a pint of Madeira or Sherry wine ; a pint of Rhenish Avine ; 
and the same quantity of brandy or rum; the juice of four lemons, 
and the yellow rinds of two of them rubbed off on a piece of loaf 
i^Ugar, M-m the whole together with a (juarti of water, p,nd §g 



HOW TO BREW. 51 



much sugar as will sweeten it. This will be found a very superior 
beverage for parties, routs or balls. It may be bottled for use. 

GEORGE THE FOURTH'S PUNCH, 

Extract the essence from the rinds of three lemons, by rubbing 
them with lumps of sugar; put these into a large jug with the peel 
of the oranges, and of two lemons extremely thin, the juice of 
four oranges and of ten lemons, and six glasses of calf's-feet jelly 
in a liquid state. Stir these well together, pour to them two 
quarts of boiling water, cover the jug closely, and set it near the 
fire for a quarter of an hour; then strain the «iixture into a 
punch-bowl, and sweeten it with a bottle of capillaire; add half 
a pint of white wine, one pint of French brandy, one pint of 
rum, and one bottle of curacoa. Stir the punch as the spirit is 
poured in. 

NORFOLK PUNCH. 

Pare off the rinds of six lemons and three oranges. Squeeze the 
juice into a large jar, put to it two quarts of brandy, one quart 
of white wine, the peels, one quart of milk, and one pound 
and a quarter of sugar. Stir them well together, and let them 
stand for twenty-four hours. Strain through a jelly bag till 
clear^andbottle for use. 

BISHOP. 

Roast a lemon, and stick it full of cloves; meantime, boil in a 
pint of water equal quantities of spice to suit the palate, such as 
inace, cinnamon, cloves, etc. Put the lemon into a bowl, and 
pour over it the extract from the spices. Now add a bottle of 
port, made nearly boiling, and sweeten the whole with loaf 
sugar. Bishop may also be made with claret, or equal parts of 
port and claret. 



SYLLABUB. 

Take half a pint of port and half a pint of sherry wine, put 
them into a deep bowl, with a little cinnamon and nutmeg, and 
fine powdered loaf-sugar to taste: then milk upon it, until nearly 
full, and a fine froth is produced; let it stand about twenty 
minutes or half an hour, then grate nutmeg over, and cover with 
clotted cream. The addition of a little lemon or orange juice, and 
the rinds of two or three lemons or oranges rubbed off on the 
rough surface of a piece of loaf-sugar, with the wine, will much 
improve it. In some countries cider and brandy are substituted 
for the wine. 

As this method cannot at all times be convenientlv adopted, es- 
pecially by those who do not keep cows, the milk warm from the 
cow (which is necessary, as milk artificially warmed does not do 
go well) may fee put j.nto a ten. or coffee pot, apfl poured in ^ ^xmW 



b2 HOW TO BREW. 



stream at a good distance upon tbe ingredients in the 
bowl. 

COOL CUP. 

Take half a pound of lump sugar, and rub each piece well over 
a lemon, to extract the flavor of the rind; when finished put the 
sugar into a jug, and squeeze the lemon juice over it, then add 
half a pint of rum or gin, according to flavor desired, and the 
quarter of a nutmeg finely grated; let those ingredients digest 
together for ten minutes, and then finally add one quart or three 
piuts of fresh coid spring water. If a lump of ice be put in, so 
much cooler will the Cool Cup be. By some, digesting for ten 
minutes may appear useless; but during the ten minutes the 
spirit extracts the essential oil from the nutmeg and lemon-peel, 
which would be done by boiling water, if that were used instead 
of cold. 

^ COOL CIDER CUP. 

Take one bottle of cider, half a pint or good brandy or whisky, 
a quarter of a pound of finely-pounded loaf sugar, and a large 
tumblerful of pounded ice. Mix and serve it in glasses. This 
will be found a cool and delicious summer drink, and suitable at 
any time for ball or rout parties. It will be much approved on 
such occasions by the ladies, if a pint of good old sherry be sub- 
stituted for the brandy or whisky, and a bottle of soda water or 
lemonade added, with some grated nutmegs; or if half the 
quantity of brandy with half a pint of sherry be used. 



This is a beverage which is held in high estimation in many 
places. It is made with a mixture of beer or ale (foi'merly amber 
ale was only used), and gin and bitters, or gin bitters. The gin 
and bitters are jnit into a half-pint pewter pot, and the ale warm- 
ed over a brisk fire, and added to it, at the exact warmth for a 
person to drink such a portion at a single draught. 

WARM ALE CUP. 

One quart of ale, one glass of brandy, two glasses of sherry, 
and a quarter of a pound of lump sugar. Spice according to the 
palate. Boil the sugar in half the ale, and then mix the whole 
well together. 

EGG FLIP. 

Take two eggs, and break them into a basin; add about three 
ounces of sugar, and beat those togptbor. In the meantime make 
a pint of table beer or mild porter hot, but do not let it boil, 
otherwise the eggs-; will be curdled, in which ^tatt. Iihey are termed 
by inrtuy *'hen and chickeny." Whou the beep is near boiling, 
take it 0(1", and mix the oggnaud .^iigai- already pfiiipared ,»nd tli^i 
hot beer together, by pouring tbe mixture baclfwards ^n{\ foi\ 

wwtii* fvou] iilio pot' t'O m Hm '^.^^^J " wino-biasH of gin, ui* any 



HOW TO BREW. 53 



other spirit which may be preferred ; but gin is the liquor gener- 
ally used. Grate a little nutmeg or ginger on the top, and it will 
be ready for drinking. 

EGG HOT. 

The principal difference between this and the preceding is, that 
it contains no spirit. Take one pint of good ale, three eggs, two 
ounces of sugar, with sufficient nutmeg and ginger to the palate. 
Well beat the eggs with half the beer and the sugar; then heat 
the ingredients in a saucepan to near the boiling point. Proceed 
as above, adding the remainder of the ale and spice. 

sailor's flip. 

Take three eggs and six ounces of sugar, half a pint of rum, 
and one pint of water. Mix the sugar with the eggs, then add the 
rum. When the water is very near, but not quite, at the boiling 
point, pour in the previously prepared mixture, and proceed as be- 
fore. 

A STIMULATING TONIC FOB INVALIDS. 

One pint of port wine or sherry, one ounce of isinglass, half an 
ounce of gum-arabic, two ounces of brown sugar-candy, half a 
nutmeg grated. Add lemon-peel and cloves to flavor it. Simmer 
by the fire till it is all dissolved, but do not let it boil. Strain 
through clear muslin, and give the size of a nutmeg two or three 
times a day. This is a slightly stimulating tonic, and very 
nutritious. 

A GRATEFUL BE^TIRAGE FOR A COLD MORNING. 

From half a pint to a pint of sweet milk boiled, to which is 
added a teaspoonful of curry -powder, and sugar to taste. This, 
drunk warm, will be found a grateful and warming beverage for 
those of weak constitutions, and who may require to go out on 
cold raw mornings before breakfast ; and will be much better than 
ardent spirits. 

CORDIALS AND COMPOUNDS. 

The following recipes are given on a very small scale, and may 
be mixed at anj'^time in a few minutes; and, if carefully prepared, 
will be fit for immediate use. The taste may be varied in any 
particular case, either to make the cordial sweeter or stronger 
flavored. 

Peppermint.— RectiQed spirit of wine, half a pint; oil of pepper- 
mint, seven drops; mix. Add one pint of syrup (sweetened water), 
and it is ready for use. 

Aniseseed.—Recti&ed spirits of wine, half a pint; English oil of 
aniseseed, eight drops ; mix, and add a pint of syrup. 

Cloves.— 'No. 1.— Rectified spirits of wine, half a pint; oil of 
cloves, seven drops ; mix, and add a pint of syrup. 

Cloves,— No. 3.— For a quart. Rectified spirits of wine, two 



64 now TO BREW, 

ounces ; oil of cloves, ten drops ; mix. British brandy, one pint ; 
cherry brandy, a quarter of a pint ; syrup, a quarter of a pint ; 
water, half a pint; mix for use. 

Ceclerat Cordial. — Rectified spirits of wine, lialf a pint; oil of 
cederat, six drops; oil of lemon, four drops; oil of bergamot, ten 
drops; mix, add one pint of syrup, and color with spinach juice. 

CinnaTnon Cordial. — Rectified spirits of wine, half a pint; oil 
of cassia, eight drops ; and syrup, one pint. 

Ratafia. — Rectified spirits of wine, half a pint; essence of 
bitter almonds, ten drops; essence of lemon, two di'ops; oil 
of bergamot, two drops; mix, add one pint syrup, and as 
much tartaric acid as will cover a ten-cent piece. 

Lavage. — Rectified spirits of wine, half a pint; oil of nutmegs, 
ten drops ; oil of cassia, five drops ; oil of caraway, ten drops ; 
mix, add one pint of sj-rup. 

Cherry Brandy. — For a quart. Oil of olives and cassia, of each 
five drops; spirits of wine, half a pint; mix together, add ono 
pint and a quarter of British brandy, the juice of equal i^arts of 
black and red cherries, half a pint; syrup, a quarter of a pint; 
mix well together. 

Rimi Shrub. — For a quart. Spirits of wine, half a pint; essence 
of lemon, twenty drops; mix together, add one pint of rum, a 
quarter of a pint of raisin or white currant wine; shake well to- 
gether, dissolve a quarter of an ounce of citric acid in a quarter of 
a pint of water, add half a pint of syrup, and mix all together 
for immediate use. 

Brandy Shrub. — This is made the same as rum shrub, only using 
brandy instead. 

Usquebaugh. — Rectified spirits of wine, half a pint; oil of juni- 
per, aniseseed, nutmegs, cloves, and cassia, of each three drops; 
mix well, and add a pint of syrup. 

Creme de Noyeau. — For one quart. Blanch two ounces of bitter 
almonds, and infuse them in a pint and a half of proof spirits for 
ten days, strain off the infusion, and add half a pint of syrup ; mix 
well together for immediate use. 

LIQUEURS, RATAFIAS, &C. 

Ratafia de Noyeau. — Bruise the kernels of one hundred peaches 
or apricots, and infuse them for ten days in one quart of proof 
spirit; strain tiie infusion off clear, add one quart of syrup, and 
mix them together. 

Ratafia of Cherries. — Morello cherries, with their kernels bruised, 
four pounds ; proof spirits, two quarts ; let them infuse for three 
weeks, strain and press the cherries, to obtain all the juice from 
them, and sweeten with three pints of syrup. 

Ratafia of Strawberries. — One gallon of ripe strawberries, proof 
spirit, two quarts; infuse for ten days, strain the infusion off clear, 
and sweeten with a pint of syrup, and make it a light pink with 
cochineal, if the color is not deep enough. 

Ratafia of Black Currants. — Three pounds of ripe black currants, 



HOW TO BREW. 55 



cinnamon and cloves, of each half a drachm ; proof spirits, one 
gallon ; infuse fourteen days, strain and press off the liquor, and 
add two pounds of loaf sugar. 

Curacoa. — The dried yellow peel of bitter oranges, four ounces; 
mace, half an ounce; white rum, two quarts; let the ingredients 
infuse for a week. Strain the infusion off clear, make a syrup 
with three pounds of loaf sugar, and three quarts of water; put it 
on the fire to dissolve the sugar, and take off any scum which may 
rise. When cold, mix it with the spirit. 

Noyeau. — Bitter almonds blanched and cut in small pieces, a 
quarter of a pound; white brandy or clean proof spirit, two 
quarts: let these infuse for ten days, then pour off the spirit. 
Dissolve three pounds of loaf sugar in three quarts of boiling 
water, carefully removing any scum which may rise: when cold, 
add it to the spii'it. Mix v ell, and let it stand a few days to fine; 
and, if necessary, filter it through blotting paper. If required 
colored, use one ounce of red sanders shavings, and let it infuse 
with the spirit and almonds for a few day?. 

Martiniqite Noyeau. — Bitter almonds blanched, and cut in 
pieces, a quarter of a pound; dried orange peel, a quarter of a 
pound; white rum or jiroof spirit, two quarts; refined loaf sugar, 
three pounds; water, three quarts. Prepare as the last. 

Shrub, as tnade in the West Indies. — One quart of rum, half a 
pint of lime juice, one pound and a half of sugar. Dissolve the 
sugar in the lime juice, and then mix it well with the rum; put it 
into a jar to settle and become mellow. This is excellent formak- 
ing punch. 

Punch Shrub. — Rum, two quarts; the juice of twenty -five 
lemons; loaf sugar, four pounds: rub off the yellow rinds of 
twelve of the lemons on the sugar before squeezing them, squeeze 
the juice from the lemons and strain it, dissolve the sugar in the 
juice, and mix the whole together. This is excellent for making 
punch. 

Lemonade Shrub.— The juice of eight lemons; barberry juice, 
three ounces; loaf sugar, four ounces; wdiite wine, half a pint; 
and the rinds of four of the lemons rubbed off on the sugar. Mix 
the whole together, and pass it through a filtering bag. Bottle, 
and use for making lemonade or sherbet. 

Red Currant Shrub. — One pint of red currant juice, half a 
pound of loaf sugar, one pint of rum, and one quart of brandy. 
Mix, and let it stand eight or nine days, stirring it once a day. 
Strain through a filtering bag, and bottle it off. 



Wine Bitters.— Gentian roof, half an ounce; the yellow rinds of 
fresh lemons, half an ounce; long pepper, one drachm; white 
wine, one pint. Mix these together, and let them infuse in the 
wine for a week; then filter it through a bag, and bottle for use. 

Spirit Bitters. — Gentian root, half an ounce; sweet orange peel 
(dried), a quarter of an ounce; lesser cardamon geedg (freed from 



56 



HOW TO BREW. 



their husks), a quarter of an ounce; spirits, one pint. Infuse in 
the spirits for ten or twelve cla;f s, and filter for use. 

Ale Bitters. — Ale, one quart; gentian root, one ounce; the yel- 
low rind of fresh lemon peel, one ounce. Let these steep in the 
ale for ten days, then strain it through a bag. Bottle, and cork it 
up for use. This is an excellent bitter for ale. 

A good Bitter. — One ounce of gentian root, a quarter of an 
ounce of Virginian snakeroot, one scruple of cochineal (pounded 
fine), and one pint of brandy. Steep these articles together for a 
week, then strain and bottle. 




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A Terrible Deed 10 

The Wandering Heir 10 

Three Strong Men 10 

Bread-and-Cheese and Kisses — 10 
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Paul Clifford, Double No 20 

After Darlc, Double No 20 

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Her Lord and Master 10 

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Great Hoggarty Diamond 10 

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Through Fire and Water 10 

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In Duty Bound 10 

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A Dark Night's Work 10 

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The Romance of a Poor Young 

Man 10 

The Best of Husbands, by Payn. 10 
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The Brotliers' Bet, by E. Carlen. .10 
Wrecked in Port, by E. Yates. . . .20 

Ladder of Life 10 

From Dreams to Waking 10 

The Colleen Bawn, by Griffin. .. .20 
Harry Heathcote, by Trollope. . . 10 
One of the Family, by Payne. ...10 
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Twenty Years After, by Dumas. .20 
Going to the Bad, by E. Yates. . . .10 

Valerie, by Captain Marryat 10 

Leila, by Edward Bulwer 10 

Fenton's Quest 20 

The Golden Lion of Grandpere. .10 

Three Times Dead 20 

Janet's Repentance 10 

My Young Wife 20 

The Three Spaniards 20 

Lettice Arnold, by Mrs. Marsh. . . 10 

Hetty, by Henry Kingsley 10 

Maud Mohan 10 

The Birthright, by Mrs. Gore 10 

Jane Eyj-e. by Charlotte Bronte. 10 

The Two Convicts 20 

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Roderick Random, by Smollett.. 20 

A Hei-o, by Miss Muloch 10 

A.lice Learmont 10 

A Beggar on Horseback 20 

The Wayside Cross, by Milman. .10 

The Black Lady of Duna 10 

The Quiet Heart.. 10 

A Woman Hater 10 

John Halifax, Gentleman 10 

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114 Cosette, " 10 

115 Marius, " 10 

lie St. Dennis, " 10 

117 Jean Va) jean, " 10 

119 The New Magdalen 10 

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121 Suai'leyow, by Capt. Marrayat. . .10 

122 Asmodeus; or, the Devil on Tvw> 

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The Garden of Roses; Kathleen 
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men; When Christ Was Born. 

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Come, Gather Round the Hearth; 
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Home, Sweet Home. 

Contents of No. 13. — Pntinitza 
March; Traumerei (Dreaming); Tl,e 
Larboard Watch, Duet; The True 
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in' Thro' the Rye. 

Contents of No. 14.— La Marjo- 
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What Does Little Biidie .SayV Oh; 
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Contents of No. 1«.— Adagio Can- 
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Contents of No. 17.-11. M. S. Pin- 
AFOHR, Part L— Introduction and 
Opening Chorus; I'm Called Little 
Buttercup; The Nightingale's Song; 
A Maiden Fair to See; My Gallant 
Crew; Sorry Her Lot; Over Ihe 
Bright 1 lue Sea; Now Give Three 
Cheers; Wlien I Was a Lad. 

Contents of No. 18.-H. M. S. Pfn 
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Contents of No. 1 O.-H. M. S. Pina 
FORE, Part III.— He is an English- 
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ing; Oh, Bliss! Oh. Rapture! Oh, 
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MUNRO'S OPERA SERIES. No. 1. 



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GEMS" COMPLETE. 



Words and Music. 



CONTENTS 



Introduction and Opening Chorus. 

I'm (.'.illed Little Buttercup. 

Tlu' Ni;;litiiii;ale's Song. 

A Miiideu Fair to See. 

Uy Gidlunt Crew. 

Sony her Lot. 

Over the Bright Blue Sea. 

Now Give Tliree Clieers. 

Wlieu I was a Lad. 

Adniirals Song. 

Kefrain, Audacious Tar. 

Fair Moon, Serenade. 

Things are Seldom what they Seem. 

The Hours Creep on Apace. 

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Bell Trio— Tlie Song and Dance. 
The Merry Maiden and the Tar. 
Carefully On Tip-toe Stealing. 
He is au Engiisliman. Boatswain's 

Song. 
Farewell, My Own. Ralph's Song and 

Cliorus. 
Baby Farming. Little Buttercup's 

Song 
Oh, Bliss! Oh, Raptui-e! Recitative 

Chorus. 
Oh, Joy! Oh, Rapture! Finale 

Chorus. 



TRIAL BY JURY. 



CONTENTS. 

Prelude and Opening Chorus. 
Usher's Song— Now, Jurymen. 
Entrance of Defendant— Is this the 

Court.' 
Chorus of Jurymen— Monster Dread. 
Laughing Chorus — Defendant and 

Jury. 
Defendant's Song— Wlieu First My 

Old Love. 
Whispering Chorus— Oh, I was Like 

That. 
Judge and Chorus— All Hail, Great 

Judge. 
Judge's Song— When I, Good Friends. 
Usher and Jury— Oh, will you Swear. 
Bridesmaids' Chorus — Comes the 

Broken Flower. 



PlaintitTs Song —O'er the Season 
Vernal. 

Judge and Jury— Oh, Never, Never. 

Chorus of Jurymen— Monster, Mon- 
ster. 

Counsel s Song— With a Sense of Deep 
Emotion. 

Judge and Chorus— That She is Reel- 
ing. 

Defendant's Song — Oh, Gentlemen, 
Listen. 

Bridesmaids' Aria— You Cannot Eat. 

Judge's Recit— That Seems a Reason- 
able Proposition. 

Sextet and CJiorus— a Nice Dilemma. 

Duet and Chorus— I Love Him. 

Mad Scene— All the Legal Furies. 

Finale— Oh, Joy Unbounded. 



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